Camellia 'SPRING FESTIVAL' hardy camellia
Camellia
Dreams tend to come true for those who refuse to accept other people’s assumptions that something cannot be done. In the world of gardening, this is doubly true. Until quite recently, for example, it was widely believed that certain trees originating from subtropical regions – such as the Persian silk tree – had no chance of surviving Central European winters. And yet, here they are. Thriving. Beautiful. In much the same way, many gardeners still look with skepticism at the idea of growing evergreen magnolias in our climate, despite countless established specimens that clearly prove that not everything is as we once thought.
Breeding History
The same story applies to camellias. Until the end of the second millennium, these plants were enjoyed almost exclusively by growers in warmer parts of Europe – apart from the driest coastal or mountainous regions – and by gardeners in the southern parts of the British Isles. Thanks to enthusiasm, vision, and above all the meticulous breeding work of two American botanists, our green world has since been enriched with these undeniably captivating evergreen flowering shrubs. Today, an ever‑growing number of cultivars can withstand temperatures down to −24 °C when planted correctly.
Those remarkable men were Dr. Clifford Parks (1936–2020) of the University of North Carolina, who focused primarily on spring‑flowering camellias and became famous for the April series, and Dr. William Ackerman (1923–2013) of Ashton. Ackerman initially devoted himself to breeding highly fragrant camellias. Only after the harsh winters of the 1970s and 1980s – when he witnessed even mature, well‑established shrubs perish after a single winter – did his perspective change. His goal became to give the world camellias with significantly enhanced frost hardiness. Quite literally so, as he freely shared his breeding material without seeking financial reward or legal protection. His cultivars are predominantly autumn‑flowering, including both Camellia sasanqua and its hybrids.
Nomenclature
Although the exact parentage of some cultivars now appears impossible to trace and it is clear that many are hybrids, we respect established botanical names – even when plants are listed as Camellia japonica or Camellia sasanqua. Did you know that the camellia was named in honor of Jiøí Josef Kamel, a native of Brno, missionary in the Philippines, and amateur botanist? Ironically, he never saw a camellia himself, as the first specimen was brought from Asia to Europe only in 1739: thirty‑three years after his death. His contribution to botany was nevertheless recognized by one of the greatest figures in the field: Carl Linnaeus himself.
Spring Festival is a fascinating hardy camellia cultivar that we have come to appreciate above all for its reliability. It elevates any evergreen planting scheme without requiring constant concern about frost hardiness. This is a spring‑flowering variety that produces an abundance of small, semi‑double to fully double, medium‑pink flowers from late March through May. And it does not rest once flowering is over. As soon as the last petals fall, new shoots emerge with striking copper‑red young leaves. These evergreen leaves are leathery, narrowly ovate, and noticeably smaller than those of Japanese camellias – yet exceptionally beautiful.
As if that were not enough, Spring Festival offers another feature that proves valuable in many situations: a strictly upright, almost columnar growth habit. Can you imagine it as a hedge? Avant‑garde, dramatic, and luxurious. When in bloom, it will flood your Instagram feed with so many photos that your friends may start to resent you 😊 It grows densely and branches well even without pruning. Should pruning be necessary, it is best done as soon as flowering has finished.
Spring Festival originated in California as a selection from an open‑pollinated plant of Camellia cuspidata. The mother plant grew in the collection of Toichi Domoto in Hayward, surrounded by other camellia species that contributed pollen carrying new genetic information. The first flowers appeared on the seedling around 1970, and its exceptional qualities convinced Domoto that he had something worthy of registration. This was accomplished in 1976 by Yves Chapel, who formally described the plant and introduced it to the market. Because this was not a controlled hybridization, the exact pollen parentage can only be inferred from the combination of traits the plant displays: the C. × williamsii group, with C. japonica contributing strong branches and an upright habit; C. saluenensis providing bronze‑colored new growth and a lighter leaf texture; and C. cuspidata adding what matters most – significantly enhanced frost hardiness, early flowering without spring bud damage, and occasional sporadic flowering even at the beginning of winter.
Location
Camellias in the wild thrive best in partial shade, where they enjoy a stable microclimate without major temperature or humidity swings. They most often grow beneath tall-canopied trees that provide filtered light, shelter from wind, and consistent moisture. Spring Festival, however, is different — it handles winter sun and the typical frosts of zone 6 remarkably well, so it doesn’t require a strictly protected site.
Camellias must be planted carefully; once established, they require surprisingly little maintenance. They prefer loose, humus‑rich, acidic soil that drains well yet does not dry out completely. A heath‑type bed with even moisture and a layer of mulch bark (5–10 cm) is ideal. They do not tolerate waterlogging or heavy clay soils, although clay in the deeper layers of the soil profile is not a problem. Planting holes should be relatively shallow, with the sides backfilled using a mixture of high‑quality substrate and sieved native soil in a 1:1 ratio. We strongly recommend the use of mycorrhizal fungi for acid‑loving plants – specifically ericoid mycorrhiza, which associates with the fine roots of heathland shrubs. In heavy soils, raising the planting area is advisable. Camellias dislike transplanting, so choose the location carefully. Until they are fully established (2–3 years), water them even in winter whenever temperatures are above freezing and the soil is not frozen. Fertilization is important at least after flowering and may be continued regularly until late summer, though it is not strictly necessary. Recommended frost hardiness is approximately −20 to −23 °C (USDA zone 6).
Last update 23-02-2018; 07-01-2026

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- STANDARD QUALITY - Plants of this group are 1st class quality with number of branches and overall density adequate to their size and age, considering they were container grown.
- DE LUXE QUALITY - This label guarantees a luxurious quality of manually selected plants that, compared to their height and age, are exceptionally dense and beautiful.
- EXTRA - These plants are usually mature and bigger specimens with exceptional overall appearance.
- STANDARD (as described in the plant form) means a tree with a trunk of 190-210 cm and a crown at the top, unless specified differently. The commercial size for trees is their girth measured in the height of 1m from ground.
- HOBBY - These plants are of the same quality as our standard-quality plants but younger and therefore cheaper.
- SHRUB - a woody plant with branches growing bushy from the ground level.
- HALF-STANDARD or MINI-STANDARD - a small tree with shorter trunk, its size is usually specified.
- FEATHERED - These are trees with branches growing already from the base of the trunk and up along the stem.
- GRASSES and PERENNIALS - Sizes given usually read the diameter of the pot or the clump, as specified.




































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