New assortment

Norman Hadden is a Japanese dogwood that looks a little like a fashion trend from the 2020s – oversized. When it comes into bloom, it feels as if the tree has slipped into a set of ceremonial robes one size too large. Its bracts are unusually big, reaching 10 to 15 centimetres, placing it among the largest within the Japanese dogwoods. They resemble four white sheets of paper, their tips lifting ever so slightly as if they might take flight. And as the weeks pass, the white slowly softens into a gentle pink, subtle but with a kind of old‑world elegance. The white display is not made up of true flowers but of coloured bracts surrounding a small spherical head composed of tiny, real blossoms. The bracts act like a runway for pollinating insects, guiding them towards the nectar. After pollination, the sphere develops into an attractive, rich pink fruit that ripens from late summer into early autumn. The fruits are larger than those of the typical species, mildly sweet, slightly mealy and full of seeds, with a skin that carries a faint bitterness. They are not the kind of fruit you would gather for preserves, but they work beautifully as a small treat – a curiosity to taste while walking through the garden, and you soon realise they have their own charm.

It is a deciduous tree with a firm, upright habit, its branches spreading into a broad, funnel‑shaped crown that feels steady, calm and, with age, almost majestic, as though aware of its own importance. It grows around 20–30 centimetres a year, so patience is required, but the reward is worth it. The leaves are oval with a pronounced tip, finely veined and always slightly drooping like those of a pear tree, deep green in summer and turning red and purple in autumn, reminiscent of Japanese maples.

‘Norman Hadden’ belongs among the large‑flowered dogwoods and is often compared with giants such as ‘Venus’. Its bracts are slightly smaller, but in return it offers a soft pink flush and a denser habit that ‘Venus’ cannot match. It is named after the Irish gardener Norman Hadden (1900–1980), who discovered it in his Somerset garden in the late 1940s. It was not a planned selection or the result of a breeding programme, but rather a fortunate find – a seedling that stood out from the surrounding dogwoods with its unusually large bracts and overall vigour. It was later confirmed not to be a pure Cornus kousa but a natural hybrid between Cornus kousa and Cornus capitata, which explains its stronger growth, larger fruit and gentle pink tinting of the bracts. Hadden kept the plant, observed it over many years and eventually introduced it to the wider horticultural world without patenting it, where it quickly gained a reputation as one of the most impressive large‑flowered dogwoods. Its hardiness is just a touch lower than that of the Japanese dogwood, but still perfectly adequate for our conditions (around –26 °C: USDA zone 5b).

Like other Japanese dogwoods, ‘Norman Hadden’ is at its best as a specimen tree, with enough space to show off its broad, funnel‑shaped form and large bracts that can be appreciated even from a distance. It works beautifully beside a terrace or in a front garden, where it can be viewed up close and where its soft pink flush and autumn colours are most striking. In naturalistic plantings it provides year‑round interest – spring bracts, summer fruit and autumn colour keep the composition coherent even in quieter periods. It pairs well with a lower understorey, either dense evergreen shrubs that maintain structure after leaf‑fall, or eye‑catching perennials that brighten the space when the dogwood is already setting fruit. Thanks to its spreading crown, it can also serve as a light screen, offering gentle, dappled shade for plants that need protection from the midday sun without darkening the area.

GLORIOUS RED clematis belongs to the viticella type and shows off a rich, velvety red colour. Despite its depth, the flower never feels heavy, because its five or six petals are thinner, fairly luminous, and gently curl downwards when fully open, giving the bloom spatial depth rather than a flat look. The flower diameter of around eight centimetres is surprisingly generous for a viticella, and the yellow‑green anthers in the centre add a point of light that enhances the red even further. The plant flowers from June to September, and because each bloom lasts up to two weeks and cleans itself, it maintains a neat appearance for a long time without intervention.

The leaves are either simple or trifoliate, both with a smooth, slightly glossy surface and a softly undulating margin. Their colour is medium to dark green, with no summer yellowing, and the underside is noticeably shinier. The stems are thin, firm and flexible, with fine pubescence typical of young viticellas. In the garden it reaches up to 2.5 metres, yet retains a light, airy look thanks to longer internodes and a naturally open habit. The cultivar was bred by Jan van Zoest in the Netherlands and is protected by US Plant Patent PP36525 (2025). Hardy to about -34 °C (USDA zone 4).

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 03-06-2026

GLORIOUS CLOUD clematis, bred by J. van Zoest from the Netherlands, belongs to the viticella group and carries a distinctive, almost ethereal expression: four plump tepals that narrow noticeably towards the tips, gently arched and forming a light, airy star. This four‑tepal structure is unusual among viticellas and gives the plant a character that stands apart from typical cultivars of this group. The colouring is two‑toned – a nearly white centre that gradually shifts into inky blue‑violet edges, creating the impression of a luminous transition between shade and sunlight. In full sun this contrast becomes even more pronounced, and the flower resembles a delicate cloud whose edges deepen into saturated colour.

It flowers from June into September, producing a steady succession of blooms that maintain the plant’s soft, cloud‑like presence throughout the season. The stamens are pale yellow‑green, adding a subtle yet precise accent to the centre. The plant has a vigorous growth habit, reaching around three metres, while retaining the lightness typical of viticellas. The leaves are mid‑green, smooth and softly glossy, forming a natural backdrop that allows the bicoloured flowers to stand out. Another characteristic feature is the abundant production of buds, giving the plant the appearance of a continuous, softly tinted veil. A significant advantage is its high resistance to wilt and its reliable hardiness to approximately –34 °C (USDA zone 4).

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 03-06-2026

Shiro‑nakafu is a remarkable cultivar of creeping broad‑leaf sedge whose broad, soft leaves look as if someone had brushed them with a wide stroke of cream. The variegation is irregular and the leaves always contain more white than green, which appears only as thin streaks along the margins. Contrary to the sharpness suggested by the genus name, the leaves are soft, almost silky, and invite touch. The plant forms low, slowly spreading clumps that create a soothing, carpet‑like effect in partial shade. It spreads reliably but not aggressively, and its broad leaves give it a stronger presence than most sedges. Compared with the species, ‘Shiro‑nakafu’ is lighter, more striking and less robust because the variegated parts of the leaves contain less chlorophyll. This slows growth but gives the plant a delicacy that the green form lacks.

The origin of the cultivar is not fully documented, but all evidence suggests that it arose in Japan, where Carex siderosticta has been cultivated for centuries and where the tradition of variegated plants runs deep. Japanese horticulture has long valued subtle colour nuances and the play of light on foliage, and many variegated sedges emerged there before spreading to Europe and North America. The name ‘Shiro‑nakafu’ (シロナカフ) is Japanese and means white centre, perfectly describing the appearance of the leaves. It appears in European sources from the second half of the 20th century, when it began to circulate among collectors of ornamental grasses and shade‑loving perennials.

In the garden, ‘Shiro‑nakafu’ is best used in partial shade as a soft, bright contrast to taller and more rigid ferns, green‑leaved brunneras or pulmonarias. It can also break up the monotony of larger areas planted with a single groundcover species such as Vinca or Sedum, adding a gentle rhythm of light. In planting compositions it acts as a subtle but noticeable accent that calms and brightens the space at the same time.

Last revised 01‑06‑2026

Let’s be perfectly honest from the start: Melton Pastels is not a superhero Macedonian scabious cultivar of breathtaking size or colour – it is a mixture. Yes, you heard correctly: an English colour mix that someone found so charming they gave it a simple name. And after all the years we’ve been selling it, I completely understand why it is so successful and why almost everyone creating a meadow‑style border reaches for it. Picture this: a young perennial with unopened buds walks through a painter’s studio filled with watercolour shades from pink to purple, and returns like a model on a catwalk, now clad in several colours at the same time while the audience applauds.

Dozens of light, button‑shaped flowerheads in shades of raspberry, pink, soft carmine, pale and deep purple sway in the slightest breeze on thin stems 60 to 80 cm tall, and the colours blend so naturally it feels as if they had been part of the world since its very beginning. The first flowers appear in June and continue into September or even October if early autumn is warm and sunny. The leaves are most attractive at the start of the season before the flowering stems rise – narrow, grey‑green, slightly rough and distinctly lobed along the edges. Plants under stress may show powdery mildew in early summer, so avoid both overwatering and prolonged drought. Melton Pastels is not a clone or a registered cultivar but a horticultural mixture developed in England and named after the Melton area, where it was first selected and introduced at the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries.

Macedonian scabious can instantly lighten and animate a perennial border. Its thin stems and pastel flowers create a delicate constellation of coloured dots above the foliage, trembling in the wind like a piece of meadow lace. It performs best in meadow‑style plantings, where it can weave freely among other perennials without strict boundaries. Like tiny, pastel-coloured satellites, it floats above salvias, pennisetums, poppies, columbines and yarrows, and intertwines beautifully with taller gauras, verbenas and perovskias, with which it maintains a lively rhythm of colour until the end of summer. Thanks to its long flowering period, it is also excellent for cutting, adding lightness and movement to arrangements without overpowering the other flowers.

Last update 31-05-2026

“Chop chop, come on, girls: en pointe, arabesque, relevé and plié!” What else would a young dancer hear from her demanding ballet teacher? Except that this beauty is a sage that only carries the name Ballerina. Yet its colour, lightness, delicacy and grace… that really is a ballerina in full form, isn’t it? Ballerina Pink meadow clary steps into a border like a dancer onto a stage – with large, soft pink flowers that look fuller and more expressive than those of ordinary hybrids. The flower spikes are dense, firm, well-branched and hold their shape even in heat, so the plant stays fresh-looking throughout its flowering period. The foliage forms a compact, dark green mound that doesn’t flop and keeps the plant in an elegant, upright posture. It flowers in May and offers repeat bloom only occasionally. The cultivar was bred by Hans A. Hansen at Walters Gardens, USA, and was granted patent no. PP29957 in 2018.

All meadow-sage hybrids are classic “stage plants”: they need space where their brightly coloured flowers can really shine. They perform best at the front or middle of a border, where you can easily appreciate their upright, compact habit and firm spikes. Their pastel shades combine beautifully with other perennials of the same season, and it is wise to plant species with different flowering times nearby so the border changes gradually through the year. Thanks to their disciplined height they are ideal for smaller gardens, where they never overwhelm the space. I like to pair them with hardy hibiscus, which are only just emerging when the sages are in full flower, and later naturally take over the space once the sages are cut back. They also work wonderfully with grasses, which emphasise their lightness – calamagrostis, deschampsia or low-growing molinia fill the border after the sages finish in a similar, airy way. And the whole composition works surprisingly effortlessly – the border has something to offer all year and behaves completely naturally.

Last update 29-05-2026

Little Sonja is an exceptionally compact witch’s broom of Japanese cedar, originating in the early 21st century. It was discovered by Sonja Horstmann, wife of the owner of the German nursery Baumschule Horstmann in Schneverdingen, as a spontaneous mutation on a plant growing in the Netherlands, a country known for many attractive cultivars that also arose from witch’s brooms. The cultivar originated as a mutation of ‘Little Champion’, from which it differs by its distinctive finger‑like branching at the tips of the shoots. The plant forms extremely dense, very slow‑growing cushions to low semi‑globose shrubs. The needles are strikingly short, soft and light green, arranged spirally around the shoots, and it is precisely at the shoot tips that the feature distinguishing ‘Little Sonja’ from its relative ‘Little Champion’ becomes visible. The very short internodes give the plant a fine, almost moss‑like texture.

‘Little Sonja’ is clearly a miniature within the family of Japanese cedars. It performs best in the front parts of mixed borders, on the edges of heath beds, in small conifer compositions, or as a small specimen in Japanese-style stone and gravel plantings, where its light green, spirally arranged needles create a gentle contrast to darker conifers and deciduous shrubs. It retains its fresh colour and compact outline in winter, acting as a stable structural element at a time when deciduous shrubs and perennials retreat and the garden, as well as the eye, seeks something alive and green. In smaller gardens it is valued for its long‑term size stability, which allows precise planning of compositions without the risk of overgrowth.

Last update 27-05-2026

White is perhaps an unusual colour for lavender, yet when placed among good companions it can beautifully highlight the surrounding shades just as easily as it can draw attention to itself with its purity. Edelweiss is an old lavandin cultivar that brings a gentle, clean presence to the border: its flowers are snow‑white, arranged in firm, slender spikes about 6–10 cm long, held above the compact mound on sturdy, silvery stems. The leaves are typically lavandin‑like – narrow, elongated, grey‑green to silvery, with a fine felted surface that gives the plant its drought‑tolerant, almost Mediterranean character. It grows to around 60–90 cm in height and 70–100 cm in width, making it more robust than true English lavender while still maintaining a regular, dense shape. Flowering begins in July and continues through August, often extending into September, and although it is not genetically remontant, it can produce a lighter late flush after pruning. This is a historic European selection, documented as early as around 1880 and without a known breeder – a cultivar that has endured thanks to its reliability, pure colour and strong fragrance.

Last update 22-05-2026

Orange Pumpkin avens belongs among modern cultivars and is characterised by uniquely fully double flowers in the vivid colour of Hokkaido pumpkin. Its greatest strength is its stable, long and repeat flowering from late spring into summer, often with a second flush in the cooler end of the season. The flowers have a warm orange tone with a soft apricot tint, and thanks to the dense number of petals they are full and appear lush. They are carried atop firm, slender, dark green stems about 40–50 cm tall, which hold well even in windy weather. The leaves are palmately lobed, forming a compact, lush, fresh‑green basal rosette. The whole clump looks clean and tidy throughout the season because the foliage regenerates well and does not suffer from premature ageing. Growth is moderately fast, and the clump typically reaches 30–40 cm in width.

‘Orange Pumpkin’ reached the shortlist of finalists at the prestigious Chelsea Flower Show in 2023, and in the Glazen Tulp Award 2024–2025 it won the People’s Choice Award as well as 3rd place in the main evaluation. The cultivar was bred by Armand Kremer of the German nursery Staudengärtnerei Green‑Globe, and European PBR no. 69562 was granted in 2025.

In the garden, it is worth making use of the three main strengths of Geum ‘Orange Pumpkin’. Its bright green leaves stand out beautifully beside dark‑leaved perennials such as ligularias or heucheras, and it performs well at the boundary between sunny and partially shaded borders, where it does not disappear into shade. Thanks to its compact growth it reliably fills the space between larger perennials without outgrowing them or weighing them down. The juicy orange colour of the flowers is cheerful and can brighten perennial compositions at a time when other clumps are only at the start of the season and not yet in bloom – daylilies are producing new leaves, gaura is still low to the ground and loosestrife is only just forming leafy stems. Because the cultivar is distinctly compact and slow‑spreading, it is best planted in groups of at least three to create a generous display.

Last update 21-05-2026

CRANBERRY is a coral bells with foliage in a bronze‑red pigment that looks like a soft dusting of colour and instantly draws the eye in any border. It belongs to the Dutch “berry series”, and its name suggests a cranberry tone — which is true, but only in one phase, because the leaves shift through the season from cranberry red to caramel copper and finally to muted wine shades, always keeping their deep purplish underside. The leaves are broad, shallowly palmately lobed with a cordate base, and have rounded, strongly undulated lobes that give them a sculptural, almost three‑dimensional look; the surface is softly pubescent with a gentle sheen. The plant forms a low, evenly rounded, very dense mound from which long, slender stems rise to about 70 cm, carrying numerous small, light‑purple, sterile flowers. Flowering typically occurs from June to July. The cultivar is protected by patents 58126 (EU – 2021) and PP32106 (USA – 2020).

Its colour and density make CRANBERRY an excellent choice for the front of perennial borders, especially where you have a lot of green foliage that needs a lift. For the strongest contrast, place it among plants with narrow, lance‑shaped or grass‑like leaves – salvias, daylilies or sedges all work beautifully as supporting partners. But do not hesitate to add texture and pair it with delphiniums or trollius either; it creates a rich, coloured underlayer for their golden‑orange spring flowers. For a full, cohesive clump, plant at least three plants together.

Coral bells are hardy perennials, mainly used as ground covers, however, they are excellent companions to plants with other textures, especially when mass planted. They prefer lightly shaded locations and evenly moist, nutrient-rich soil—soil pH does not matter. With occasional watering, they can tolerate full sun, except for light-colored varieties, unless specifically bred for sun exposure. They can even grow in shade, though their colors will be less vivid. In early spring, simply trim all leaves, allowing fresh new foliage to emerge. Fertilization is not required but significantly enhances their appearance and vigour. They are hardy to approximately -34 °C (USDA zone 4) and can be grown in outdoor containers as well.

Last update 18-05-2026

Clematis RED PASSION belongs to the Patens Group and carries striking flowers 8–10 cm across in a rich, deep red colour that appears almost velvety in sunlight. The tepals are broad, firm and slightly wavy at the edges, with intense pigmentation that makes the blooms stand out even from a distance. In the first spring flush, which appears in May and June on last year’s stems, the flowers are reliably and abundantly fully double, while the summer flush from July to August on new growth is mostly single. The leaves are trifoliate, medium‑sized, deep green and slightly glossy, covering the stems well and supporting the plant’s compact appearance. Growth is moderately vigorous, with stems reaching around 2 m, and the plant climbs readily, making it suitable for smaller pergolas, trellises or containers. The cultivar is protected by European PBR and a US plant patent, was introduced in 2016 and was bred by Jan van Zoest. 

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 17-05-2026

LIBERTY clematis looks as if taken straight from a lush, tropical rainforest – the colour and size of its flowers are almost unbelievable. It belongs to the Patens Group and boasts glowing neon‑pink blooms with a darker, clearly defined margin. The flowers measure 10–12 cm across, often more with generous feeding, and are formed by broad, firm tepals with gently wavy edges that create an intense colour effect in sunlight. It flowers early – the main flush appears in May on last year’s stems, followed by a second wave from August onwards, with blooms that stand out from a distance. The leaves are trifoliate, medium‑sized, deep green and slightly glossy, covering the stems well and supporting the plant’s compact appearance. Growth is moderately vigorous, with stems reaching around 2 m, and the plant behaves as a reliable, willingly climbing vine suitable for smaller pergolas, trellises or containers. ‘Liberty’ is protected by European PBR and a US plant patent and was introduced to the market in 2014; it was bred by Jan van Zoest.

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 17-05-2026

HAVE FUN clematis is just as playful as its name suggests. It belongs among modern large‑flowered clematis with striking colours – its blooms measure 10–12 cm across and combine deep purple to raspberry‑pink tepals with a noticeably lighter, almost white central bar. The tepals are slightly wavy, often gently curling at the tips, which gives the flower a lively, informal appearance. The centre is formed by creamy yellow anthers on pale green filaments, standing out clearly against the rich background of the tepals. The plant flowers abundantly from June to September, with the first flush being strongest on last year’s stems and the second appearing on new growth. Its growth is moderately vigorous, with stems reaching around 2 m and branching well. The leaves are trifoliate, deep green and slightly glossy, retaining their fresh colour even in higher summer temperatures. The overall impression is cheerful, energetic and naturally light – exactly as its name implies. The cultivar originates from the Netherlands and was bred by Jan van Zoest, who introduced it as a novelty in 2023. 

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 17-05-2026

Kiri Te Kanawa clematis is a large‑flowered, fully double cultivar with exceptionally rich, layered blooms, ranking among the most striking blue‑violet varieties of the Early Large‑flowered group. It flowers twice a year – from late May to June and again in August – because it produces blooms on both old and new wood. The flowers measure 12–15 cm across and are composed of several rows of tepals that become denser towards the centre, creating an almost peony‑like effect. The colour is a deep blue‑violet, richer and more velvety in partial shade, brighter and cooler blue in full sun. The inner tepals are often lighter, adding depth to the flower. The stamens are cream to pale yellow and provide a gentle contrast to the dark bloom. The growth is compact and well branched, with stems usually reaching 2–2.5 m, making it suitable even for smaller gardens, pergolas, trellises or larger containers. The cultivar tolerates partial shade very well, where its colours appear most sculpted and refined. It was bred by Barry Fretwell in the United Kingdom in the 1970s and named after the famous New Zealand soprano Kiri Te Kanawa. The name reflects her elegant, cultivated expression – the same kind of quiet nobility that this cultivar’s flowers radiate.

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 17-05-2026

Corry clematis is a delicate, naturally looking cultivar with typical nodding, bell‑shaped flowers formed by four thicker, slightly waxy tepals. It belongs to the Clematis tangutica group, the Himalayan and Central Asian species known for their pendant flowers and striking, silky seed heads. The colour is a clear pale yellow with a fine texture and slight translucence along the margins, giving the flowers a fresh, sunlit appearance even in dull weather. The blooms measure around 5–6 cm, which is typical for tangutica types, and the pale yellow stamens blend with the tepals to create a harmonious look. It flowers for a long period, from July to September, exclusively on new growth, and the silvery, feathery seed heads decorate the plant well into winter. The leaves are finely divided, mid‑green, with slender petioles that cling easily to supports. Growth is vigorous, with thin, flexible stems reaching about three metres, making it suitable for smaller pergolas, trellises or naturalistic plantings where its light, airy character stands out. Tangutica clematis originate from Tibet, Qinghai, Gansu, Ningxia and Mongolia – regions with extremely dry winters, little snow and sharp temperature swings.

It belongs to pruning group 3, which flowers exclusively on new wood: all blooms are produced on the current season’s shoots. A hard spring prune is therefore essential, cutting all last year’s stems back to 20–40 cm above ground level, ideally to a strong pair of well‑developed buds. This encourages vigorous new growth and even branching, both necessary for abundant summer flowering. On very strong plants, overly long shoots can be lightly shortened during the season to maintain a neater shape and stimulate further flower production.

Last update 17-05-2026

Clematis PARADISO truly looks like a piece of Paradise. It belongs to the Patens Group and carries large flowers 10–12 cm across. Apart from the colour, it is impossible not to notice that each tepal differs in size and often even in shape. The colouring is fantastic – very pale pink in the centre, while the margin is a rich, saturated purple, a combination as striking as a warning road sign. In the first spring flush the flowers are often semi‑double, whereas later in the season the plant shifts mostly to single blooms. The main flowering comes in April and May on last year’s stems, with a lighter second wave appearing from August on new growth. The leaves are trifoliate, medium‑sized, deep green and slightly glossy, covering the stems well and supporting the plant’s compact appearance. Growth is moderately vigorous, with stems reaching around 2 m, and the plant climbs readily, making it suitable for smaller pergolas, trellises or containers. The cultivar is protected by European PBR and a US plant patent, was introduced in 2016 and was bred by Jan van Zoest. 

It belongs to pruning group 2, which flowers on both old and new wood: the first flush forms on the lateral shoots of last year’s stems, the second on the tips of new growth. In early spring remove all dead, weak or damaged stems, and shorten strong old stems to the first pair of well-developed buds to create a solid framework for early summer flowering. After the first flush, lightly trim the spent parts to encourage new growth for late-summer flowering.

Last update 17-05-2026

Evergreen silverthorn TANEO was selected in the French nursery Pépinières Ladan and seen from up close it looks as if dressed in a soft leather jacket – its young shoots have a warm brown shade reminiscent of natural hide, and the mature leaves glow in dark olive green with a copper undertone and a silvery-beige underside. After the spring flush of brownish shoots, the leaves take a long time to turn green, roughly three to five weeks, giving you plenty of time to enjoy the colour prelude. In summer it offers a dense, almost impenetrable habit, and with the first signs of cooler weather it begins to produce masses of wonderfully fragrant, inconspicuous flowers. They are almost white, speckled with beige dots, and their scent is sweet and strong, reminiscent of carnations and lily of the valley, while some say they also smell fruity notes of pears or plums.

The flowers are heavily visited by bees and bumblebees, and after pollination they fall quickly while small drupes develop in their place over winter. Under our conditions TANEO fruits reliably after mild winters, and in spring the small red drupes ripen and are edible. Their flavour is very good, it resembles sour cherries but sweeter, and the best ones are those that drop naturally when fully ripe. Unripe fruits have a tart, astringent taste similar to kaki.

TANEO grows at a medium rate, roughly 30–40 cm a year, dense, even and compact, giving a naturally tidy appearance and requiring little intervention. Thanks to its good branching it is considered one of the neatest cultivars within the whole hybrid. Its compact growth and dense branching make TANEO a popular choice for hedges – both clipped single‑species hedges and mixed evergreen screens, where it forms an attractive, year‑round barrier alongside other shrubs with similar requirements. For a Mediterranean feel it pairs well with arbutus, laurustinus, holm oak or phillyrea. For a livelier, more varied look reminiscent of western European gardens it works beautifully with photinias, Portuguese laurels, blue and Japanese hollies, evergreen privets and cherry laurels.

Evergreen silverthorn may show a few suddenly dried twigs each year, and here is a simple way to tell whether it is a problem: if you find orange dots of fruiting bodies on the dead twigs, it is the fungal disease Nectria cinnabarina. If there are no orange spots but white fan‑shaped sheets of mycelium under the bark at the base of the shrub or black cords in the soil, it is Armillaria, which attacks the roots. Both diseases occur mainly in heavy, poorly drained soil and are difficult to almost impossible to fight (and win). If none of these signs are present and only a few twigs die each year, it is almost always natural self‑thinning caused by dense growth, shading inside the shrub and occasional stress; in older oleasters this is normal and happens asymmetrically, just as in olives, hollies, holm oaks or cherry laurels and it is not dangerous.

Evergreen silverthorn is one of the toughest evergreen shrubs and thrives in almost any well‑drained soil – from sandy to loamy to stony, ideally with neutral to slightly alkaline pH. It grows best in full sun but also tolerates partial shade very well and will grow even in deeper shade, only becoming slightly looser. After planting it needs regular watering only for a few months to establish, and afterwards watering should be avoided completely – it is highly tolerant of drought and wind. It dislikes heavy, airless and permanently wet soil, where it becomes prone to problems and grows poorly. It tolerates pruning extremely well, with the best time being early spring before growth starts, and throughout the season you can shorten over‑long shoots without concern. Mulching with a 5–7 cm layer helps retain moisture, improves soil structure, supports density and protects against rapid winter temperature fluctuations. It is hardy to about –24 °C (USDA zone 6) and can withstand even a few degrees lower for short periods, with the risk of shoot tips freezing, but it regenerates very well in spring.

Last update 15-05-2026

Lullaby Baby is one of those daylilies that look charming from the very first glance, a small and gentle presence in the border. It carries rather small, about 9 cm wide, firm flowers with slightly ruffled edges that hold their shape well even in warmer weather. It is also a cultivar where colour variation between plants grown by different nurseries, in different climates and countries, can be surprisingly noticeable. Most often it appears as a soft beige with a golden sheen, but I have seen plants with a hint of salmon, as well as those that looked like lemon sorbet with only the faintest touch of yellow. Most often we encountered plants in rich beige to light orange tones with golden highlights. The throat is distinctly yellow‑green and, besides nectar for pollinators, offers a pleasant, sweet and rather strong fragrance. It flowers in the early to midseason, and each bloom remains open longer than usual (extended bloom type). The plant forms a low, compact clump about 40–50 cm tall, with narrow, grass‑like leaves that stay fresh even in warmer periods. The overall impression is calm, harmonious and full of the quiet charm typical of American hybrids from the 1970s.

The cultivar Lullaby Baby was introduced by William Spalding and registered in 1975. Spalding belonged to the group of American hybridisers who, in their time, sought a balance between beauty and garden reliability. His daylilies are known for their gentle pastel shades, pleasant fragrance and long‑lasting blooms. Spalding’s cultivars are still valued today for their dependable performance and natural elegance -unpretentious yet enduring, just like this “lullaby” among daylilies.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 14-05-2026

Longfields Model is an attractive tetraploid daylily from the Dutch Longfields series, introduced in 2021, with large flowers approximately 18 cm across. The base colour is a deep purplish wine, complemented by a lighter slate‑pink watermark above a green throat. The petals are firm, broad, with smooth margins and a velvety surface that enhances the richness of the colour. It flowers in the midseason and is a reblooming type, capable of producing a second flush later in summer. Scapes reach around 80 cm and carry many buds, ensuring an even and extended flowering period. The foliage is grass‑like, deciduous to semi‑evergreen.

The Longfields series originates from the Dutch nursery Heemskerk, which has been working with daylilies since 1965. It is one of the traditional European producers focused on large‑flowered, strongly coloured and garden‑reliable cultivars. Their work is characterised by robust plant habit, saturated colours and cultivars suitable both for mass plantings and for home gardens. The American Daylily Society, which maintains the official cultivar registry, lists an impressive 43 cultivars from this series by 2026, including both diploid and tetraploid introductions.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 13-05-2026

Heavenly Angel Ice is a diploid daylily introduced in 2004, producing large flowers approximately 20 cm across. The blooms are a clear white self with a green yellow throat that shifts to a light green tone towards the centre. It belongs to the Unusual Form – Crispate group, so the petals are distinctly elongated, twisted and morphologically open, giving the flower a pronounced sculptural appearance. It flowers in the midseason to late period, typically from mid July, and is a reblooming type capable of producing a second flush later in the season. Scapes reach about 91 cm, carry five branches and around 27 buds, ensuring a long and even flowering period. The foliage is dormant, allowing the plant to overwinter reliably in colder regions. Overall, it is a dependable white cultivar with a large bloom, a clearly defined unusual form and very good garden performance.

Jamie Gossard is an American hybridiser based in Ohio, known for his long‑term focus on large‑flowered lines, unusual forms and strong morphological expression in daylilies. He is one of the most active breeders of the early 21st century, and the American Daylily Society lists him as the author of an extensive range of introductions characterised by robust habit, high bud counts and pronounced structural variation. His work is valued for systematic line‑building with good substance, strong fertility and emphasis on Unusual Form types, particularly crispate and cascade forms. Heavenly Angel Ice is one of his earlier diploid cultivars, reflecting his interest in clean light colours, large blooms and morphologically distinctive forms with reliable garden performance.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 13-05-2026

Chocolate Candy is a tetraploid daylily cultivar with large flowers, approx. 14–15 cm across, coloured deep red to mahogany‑chocolate with a wine‑toned undertone and a yellow throat. The colour is stable, although it may lighten slightly in extreme heat. The blooms are tubular to broadly funnel‑shaped, with smooth margins and good substance, which allows them to hold their form well even in hot weather. The cultivar flowers from mid‑early to mid‑late season, usually in July, and is reliably remontant, producing a second flush of flowers after a short pause. Fragrance is not listed in the official register, yet in practice the flowers are pleasantly and noticeably scented. The blooms open during the day (diurnal). Scapes reach approximately 65–70 cm in height, carry a medium number of buds and flower evenly. The foliage is deciduous, which ensures excellent winter hardiness even in colder regions. Overall, it is a reliable, richly coloured cultivar with a long flowering season.

‘Chocolate Candy’ was bred by Patrick Stamile, one of the most influential American daylily hybridisers of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Together with his wife Grace, he worked first in Florida and later in South Carolina, where he created hundreds of cultivars that significantly shaped the modern assortment. Stamile specialised in tetraploid lines, large‑flowered types, bold edges, strong contrasts and cultivars noted for their resilience and abundant flowering. Many of his introductions received prestigious awards such as the Stout Silver Medal or the Award of Merit. His work is valued for its combination of striking aesthetics and garden reliability, making him one of the most frequently cited hybridisers in the databases of the American Daylily Society and among collectors.

Last update 08-05-2026

Gold Spark elderberry belongs among the variegated cultivars, although its foliage is notably elegant and its colouring held in check like pupils of an old boarding school. The leaves are deciduous, pinnate, composed of five to seven leaflets, each with an irregular yellow to cream margin or scattered pale markings near the edges. The colour is strongest in spring and becomes more subdued in summer heat. The leaves are aromatic, as in all black elders.

From May to June the plant bears flat inflorescences 10 to 15 cm across, composed of small white to cream flowers with a light fragrance. They are rich in nectar and pollen and therefore attract pollinators. After flowering it produces drooping clusters of glossy black fruits that ripen from August to October. The fruits are decorative and edible, as in the common black elder. They are used for juices, pressed drinks, syrups and homemade wines and, thanks to their strong flavour, work well in jams, sauces and pies. ‘Gold Spark’ forms upright to broadly funnel‑shaped shrubs, usually 2.5 to 3 metres in height and width, and regular spring pruning keeps it lower and more compact. The cultivar is also listed under the name ‘Alcsam’, but no available source provides a breeder, date of origin or precise provenance. There is currently no patent, registration or official description.

Last update 08-05-2026

Ruffled Apricot is a tetraploid daylily introduced in 1972, with large flowers approximately 18 cm across. The base colour is apricot, enriched by lavender‑pink midribs and a golden‑apricot throat that shifts to a pale green hue towards the centre. The petal edges are distinctly ruffled, giving the cultivar a soft, decorative character. It flowers early to mid‑season, usually from late June. The blooms are pleasantly fragrant and belong to the extended‑bloom type, remaining open longer than the usual sixteen hours. Scapes reach around 70 cm in height, carry a medium bud count and flower evenly. The foliage is deciduous, ensuring reliable winter hardiness even in colder regions. Overall, it is a cultivar with warm pastel colouring, pronounced ruffling and very dependable garden performance.

S. H. Baker was an American hybridiser active in the 2nd half of the 20th century, part of the generation that developed the first tetraploid daylily lines after their introduction into breeding practice. He worked in the United States, likely in the northern states, focusing on large‑flowered pastel types and on improving petal substance. In the register of the American Daylily Society he appears as the author of several introductions from the 1960s and 1970s, showing his interest in warm apricot tones, fine midrib definition and firm floral structure. He belongs among those hybridisers who did not leave a large portfolio, yet whose work is still valued for solid garden qualities and for helping shape the early tetraploid era.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 08-05-2026

The laurustinus cultivar Rock & Rolla® is one that truly earns its place in the spotlight. It was selected primarily for its unusually large, attractively shaped and coloured young foliage. New shoots emerge in vivid coppery-red tones that gradually mature into deep green. The leathery leaves are evergreen and have characteristically curved margins and a pronounced vein pattern. The shrub grows naturally upright and maintains a neat shape without pruning. In winter it produces very attractive, bright purple-pink buds which open into large, pure white flower clusters from December in the Mediterranean or from early spring in temperate climates. The flowers form dense, full heads that appear far more substantial than those of common cultivars. After flowering, metallic blue fruits follow, persisting into summer and attracting birds. They are inedible.

According to the breeder, Rock & Rolla® reaches around 1.2 metres in height and 0.7 metres in width, though time may show whether it is capable of a little more. It is ideal for smaller gardens, front gardens and low informal hedges. Its compactness is genetic rather than the result of pruning, which was one of the main reasons for its selection. The cultivar was discovered by Thijs Veldhuijzen in the Netherlands and introduced to the market after 2020.

Last update 08-05-2026

PINK REVOLUTION is a foamy bells cultivar whose name is no exaggeration. It represents a genuine turning point in breeding, probably the first cultivar to combine attractive foliage with truly abundant flowering that leaves no doubt this is a revolution. The individual flowers are a deep, saturated pink rather than a pale blush, and their density gives the inflorescences an almost foamy appearance – exceptional among heucherellas. They are larger, denser and more numerous than in comparable cultivars, carried on firm stems that form a continuous layer of pink above the foliage. Under good conditions it flowers continuously from spring to autumn, not in a single flush, which is unusual for heucherellas and in practice means the pink canopy persists for months. The leaves show the deeply lobed shape of tiarellas, but the firmness, texture and year‑round durability of modern heucheras. You can easily see the strong contrast between the darker centre and lighter margin and appreciate the colour stability throughout the season. The habit is compact and evenly filled, with good heat tolerance and the ability to maintain shape without becoming leggy.

PINK REVOLUTION was bred by Joke Dragt in Zuidwolde, the Netherlands, as part of a programme focused on long‑flowering, cold‑hardy heucherellas. It originated from a controlled cross between a Heuchera sanguinea seedling line and the Tiarella cultivar ‘Pink Skyrocket’. Dragt selected the plant in 2015, and the cultivar was released after the granting of the US patent USPP30656 and the European PBR CPVO 52369 in 2019. Joke Dragt specialises in breeding Heucherella and Heuchera hybrids with an emphasis on long flowering, strong flowering stems, powdery mildew resistance and reliable garden performance, and PINK REVOLUTION is among his most notable achievements to date.

In the garden, PINK REVOLUTION foamy bells acts as a colour beacon. For many weeks it reliably lights up its surroundings with its striking pink, and afterwards offers foliage texture and colour that pair beautifully with ferns, bergenias, pulmonarias, sedges and other perennials for partial shade. It performs excellently in woodland and naturalistic plantings, where keeping a greener foliage tone helps the composition look as natural as possible. In a cottage‑style garden you can afford more colour play and combine it with dark‑leaved geraniums or unusual corydalis. In modern plantings it looks best as a monoculture, planted in larger single‑species drifts, whether in beds or ornamental containers.

Last update 08-05-2026

Screamcicle is a tetraploid daylily bred by Cochenour and introduced in 2003. The flowers are large, nearly 20 cm across, with a strong orange colour and a red‑orange eye above a yellow‑orange throat. The petals are ruffled and slightly twisted, typical of the Unusual Form – Crispate type, giving the bloom a lively, sculptural appearance. It flowers early to mid‑season and often reblooms, producing a second flush in late summer. The blooms open during the day, have good substance and retain their saturated colour even in full sun. Scapes reach around 89 cm in height and carry about 28 buds on five branches, ensuring a long and abundant flowering period. The foliage is dormant, allowing the plant to overwinter reliably. Overall, this is a cultivar with warm, vivid colouring, a dynamic floral form and very dependable garden performance.

Cochenour is an American hybridiser active at the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, belonging to the generation that pushed the aesthetics of Unusual Form daylilies towards greater movement and colour energy. In the register of the American Daylily Society he appears as the author of several tetraploid cultivars characterised by a strong orange palette, contrasting red‑orange eyes and the use of genetic lines derived from ‘Primal Scream’ and ‘Outrageous’. His cultivars are noted for their strong floral substance, high bud count and ability to rebloom, making them reliable garden plants. Although his portfolio is not extensive, Cochenour is among the hybridisers who helped define the modern form of UF Crispate daylilies — blooms with relaxed, twisted petals and a dynamic expression. ‘Screamcicle’ is his best‑known introduction and remains a popular cultivar in gardens and collections for its colour intensity and distinctive floral form.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 08-05-2026

Supaga is a Latvian table grape with very light, almost white berries that give the vine a clean, delicate appearance. The clusters are medium to large, conical, and often carry short side wings, which makes them look naturally irregular. The berries are oval to slightly pointed, with a thin, translucent skin that turns pale yellow on the sun‑exposed side. They contain seeds. The flesh is soft, juicy, and sweet, with a faintly tangy note and a characteristic foxy flavour – a gentle strawberry‑like, lightly floral aroma reminiscent of American interspecific varieties, yet neither heavy nor intrusive. It ripens early, usually in the first half of August, and thanks to its vigorous growth and reliable wood maturation it produces consistent crops even in cooler regions. The variety tolerates humid climates well and shows increased resistance to fungal diseases, making it suitable for northern gardens.

Supaga was created in Latvia in 1959 by crossing Madeleine Angevine × Dvietes Zila, carried out by breeder Pauls Sukatnieks; it was selected in 1968. It is an interspecific hybrid with a fully documented pedigree confirmed by SSR markers and is registered in the European catalogue. It combines the finesse of its European parent with the resilience and aromatic character of eastern Baltic interspecific lines, making it a dependable table grape for cooler viticultural zones.

Last update 06-05-2026

Rhea is a modern Slovak table grape cultivar with rose‑coloured berries that look remarkably elegant on the vine. The clusters are medium to large, cylindrical‑conical, often with small wings. The berries have a thin, rose to rose‑red skin that develops warmer tones on the sun‑exposed side. The flesh is juicy, with a neutral, clean flavour free of muscat or foxiness, giving the variety a very universal character – unobtrusive, yet pleasantly fresh. The seeds are only rudimentary, so they hardly interfere when eaten, and in practice the cultivar is perceived as almost seedless. The vine grows moderately vigorously, ripens its wood well and produces regular, balanced crops provided it receives enough warmth and sunlight.

Rhea was bred in Slovakia in 1969 at the Research and Breeding Station for Enology and Viticulture (VSSVVM) by Dorota Pospíšilová. It is a pure Vitis vinifera subsp. sativa, created by crossing Chaouch Rozovyi (Ceaush Roz) × Nedeltcheff Magvatlana – two Eastern European table cultivars known for their large, attractive clusters. The variety has a fully documented pedigree supported by SSR markers and is registered in the European Catalogue (protected since 2009). In character it represents a modern table grape: rose‑coloured, appealing clusters, almost seedless berries, a neutral flavour and reliable cropping under Central European conditions.

Last update 06-05-2026

Primus grapevine is a variety that does not seek to impress with spectacle but with reliability. Its white clusters with thin skins have a clean, neutral flavour free of foxiness, which is pleasantly surprising in an interspecific hybrid. The vine grows evenly, ripens its wood well and does not tend towards excessive vigour. The clusters are medium-sized and compact, the berries firm and resistant to cracking. Primus ripens relatively early, reflecting its parentage, and tolerates humid conditions and disease pressure better than pure Vitis vinifera. Its flavour brings no aromatic extravagance, but rather clarity and simplicity, making it suitable for light wines or as a table grape with minimal seeds.

The variety was bred by Alberto Pirovano (1884–1973) in Italy in 1901 by crossing Madeleine Royale with Ferdinand de Lesseps, although genetic analyses later clarified that the true maternal parent is Madeleine Angevine. Primus is a typical representative of the early era of interspecific breeding: it combines the finesse of the European vine with the resilience of American species, has a fully documented pedigree and SSR markers, and is registered in the European catalogue. Its name, Primus – “first” – reflects the ambition to stand at the forefront of a new generation of varieties intended to provide stability at a time when Europe was seeking a way out of the phylloxera crisis, and in this respect it succeeded.

Last update 06-05-2026

Rotundifolium is an irresistibly charming little chap. It is a compact, slow‑growing cultivar of the evergreen Japanese privet, distinguished by its rounded leaves that gave the plant its name. The foliage is evergreen, small, leathery and dark green, with slightly wavy margins and a glossy surface. Young leaves are lighter in colour and gradually deepen to a rich green as they mature. The plant forms a dense, regular shrub that maintains its shape even without frequent pruning. Flowering is possible but very rare. This cultivar flowers far less freely than the species, and blooms usually appear only on older specimens and in limited quantity; most growers never encounter flowering in practice. The flowers are white, small and fragrant, and appear from June to July. The fruits are small, black, glossy berries that often persist into winter.

Thanks to its compact growth and dense foliage, ‘Rotundifolium’ is ideal for low hedges, path edging or container planting – with the proviso that containers must be overwintered in a bright, frost‑free place. In smaller gardens it serves as a reliable evergreen element that maintains structure even in winter. It tolerates pruning, urban conditions and drought well, and is suitable for shaped or formal plantings. In combination with plants of finer texture (e.g. azaleas, choisyas) it creates a striking contrast.

‘Rotundifolium’ is a historical garden form of Japanese privet, described as early as 1851 by the botanist Blume. It most likely originates from Japan, where it arose as a spontaneous mutation or an early garden selection. It also appears in the literature under the synonym ‘Coriaceum’. It is a very old cultivar whose precise breeding history has not been preserved.

Evergreen privet requires a well‑drained, moderately fertile soil and thrives in full sun as well as partial shade; in deep shade it flowers less freely and gradually loses its compact form. Permanently waterlogged, heavy clay or otherwise impermeable soils lead to root problems and eventual decline. Once established, it tolerates prolonged summer drought and high temperatures remarkably well, but in winter it is accustomed to regular rainfall. In dry winters, it should therefore be watered thoroughly once a month during frost‑free periods. Mulching the root zone helps retain moisture and provides protection against frost; a generous mulch is recommended throughout the year. Feeding is not essential, though a single application of a balanced fertiliser in spring can be beneficial. To encourage density, maintain shape or limit size, prune after flowering or in late winter, never removing more than one third of the crown at a time. Both fruits and leaves are mildly toxic, so access by children and animals should be prevented. For hedging, plants should be spaced 0.6–1.2 m apart; for specimens or shaped forms, allow 2–4 m. In sheltered locations in Central Europe, Texanum has already withstood temperatures down to −18 °C (USDA zone 7) without damage, and further testing is ongoing.

Last update 04-05-2026

The fruit of Goldrich apricot is large to very large, broadly oval, with a smooth, firm skin of deep orange colour and a fine red blush on the sun‑exposed side. The flesh is orange, firm and moderately juicy, with a balanced ratio of sugars and acids; the flavour is sweet, refreshing and slightly spicy. The stone is large and separates cleanly. The tree is vigorous, forming a spreading crown with long, strong shoots and abundant fruiting wood. Flowering is mid‑late; the flowers are white and medium‑sized. The cultivar is partially self‑fertile and requires pollinators (e.g. ‘Hargrand’, ‘Harcot’) for heavy yield.

‘Goldrich’ was bred in the United States (Washington State University, Pullman) in 1969 from the cross ‘Sungold’ × ‘Perfection’. It was introduced into the European assortment in the 1980s and remains one of the most widely grown large‑fruited cultivars for commercial production. It is noted for its high frost resistance, particularly of the wood, and good tolerance to late spring frosts, which makes it suitable even for Central Europe. It ripens mid‑early to mid‑late, approximately 7–10 days after ‘Velkopavlovická’. The fruit are very attractive and firm, with excellent transport and storage qualities, and are therefore often used for the export market. The flavour is balanced, less aromatic than that of southern cultivars, yet stable and reliable. For Central Europe, ‘Goldrich’ is highly suitable: it tolerates winter frosts well (wood down to −25 °C), the flower buds are moderately hardy (−18 °C), and the tree shows strong growth and high vigour. It requires a sunny, warm site and well‑drained soil; in humid locations it may suffer from gummosis. Under optimal conditions it produces large, uniform fruit of high market value and dependable yield.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Goldrich tolerates temperatures around –25 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 5b).

Last update 03-05-2026

The fruit of Rouge du Roussillon apricot is small to medium‑sized (35–55 mm in diameter), round to slightly oval, with a deep orange ground colour and fine red speckling or a light red blush covering part of the surface. The skin is thin and finely velvety; the flesh is soft, juicy and highly aromatic, with a high sugar content — above 12 °Brix — and low acidity. The flavour is sweet and full, with notes reminiscent of peach and nectarine, characteristic of the apricots of the Roussillon region. The stone is small and separates cleanly. The tree has medium vigour and forms a spreading crown with abundant fruiting wood on short spurs. Flowering is early; the flowers are white to slightly pink‑tinged, medium‑sized. The cultivar is self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set.

‘Rouge du Roussillon’ is a traditional regional cultivar grown in southern France’s Roussillon since the 19th century — the first written references date to 1825. In the mid‑20th century it accounted for two‑thirds of all apricots grown in the region, before gradually being replaced by modern cultivars with larger fruit. Today it forms part of the protected designation of origin AOP “Abricots Rouges du Roussillon”, which also includes the cultivars Aviéra, Royal Roussillon and Avikandi. It is a very early cultivar, harvested from late June to early July. Thanks to its tender flesh and strong aroma, it is ideal for fresh consumption, jams and pâtisserie. The fruit is picked by hand at full maturity, as it is soft and prone to bruising. For Central Europe it is suitable only for the warmest regions with long summers and sheltered sites. The wood has medium frost resistance (−20 to −22 °C). In cooler areas it suffers from irregular cropping and weaker colouring. Under optimal conditions, however, it produces exceptionally aromatic, sweet fruit with its characteristic red speckling, making it one of the most charming historic apricots of the Mediterranean.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Rouge du Roussillon tolerates temperatures around –22 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 6).

Last update 03-05-2026

Farbaly apricot produces medium‑sized to large, broadly oval fruit with a deep orange skin and a pronounced, evenly distributed red blush that may cover up to half of the surface. The skin is finely velvety, slightly firmer, and tolerates handling and transport well. The flesh is orange, firm and very juicy, with a high sugar content and a distinctly aromatic, sweet‑spicy flavour typical of this cultivar. The stone is medium‑sized and separates cleanly. The tree has medium vigour and forms a broadly spreading, well‑branched crown with abundant fruiting wood on short spurs. Shoots are straight, medium‑thick, with smooth orange‑brown bark. The leaves are broadly ovate, deep green, carried on longer petioles, with a finely serrated margin. Flowering is mid‑early; the flowers are white to slightly pink‑tinged, medium‑sized, with prominent anthers. The cultivar is functionally self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set and size.

‘Farbaly’ is a modern French cultivar originating from the NEWCOT breeding programme, focused on bicoloured, high‑quality and reliably fruiting apricots for the warmer parts of Europe. It was bred by Marie‑France Bois and introduced into the European assortment by I.P.S. Montélimar. It has been grown commercially since around 2008–2010; its exact parentage has not been disclosed. It ripens shortly after the very earliest cultivars such as Early Orange or Luizet, but offers larger, more intensely coloured fruit with a strong red blush and higher sugar levels. Compared with classic European cultivars such as Velkopavlovická, it is earlier, more colourful and sweeter, but requires a warmer site to develop its full flavour and fruit size. In cooler regions it may suffer from irregular cropping, weaker colouring and lower sugar content, as its earliness and quality are strongly dependent on temperature and sunlight. In suitable conditions, however, it ranks among the most attractive early apricots currently available.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Farbaly tolerates temperatures around –22 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 6).

Last update 03-05-2026

Mombacher Frühe apricot produces medium‑sized, round to slightly flattened fruits with a yellow‑orange skin and a fine red blush on the sun‑exposed side; the surface is softly velvety and the flesh is orange, juicy, tender, easily separating from the stone, with a balanced, aromatic flavour. The tree grows moderately to strongly, forming a broad, spreading crown with dense fruiting wood on short shoots. Young shoots are straight and medium‑strong, with smooth light‑brown bark that darkens with age. The leaves are broadly ovate, deep green, on long, often slightly reddish petioles, with a finely serrated margin. Flowering is very early; the flowers are white to faintly pink, medium‑sized, with reddish sepals and prominent stamens. The cultivar behaves as functionally self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set.

Mombacher Frühe originates from Mombach near Mainz in Germany and ranks among the earliest European apricots — it ripens significantly earlier than classic cultivars such as Velkopavlovická or Bergeron, and in timing it approaches the very earliest types like Early Orange, though it is more aromatic and finer in texture. In flowering it belongs to the very first cultivars, similar to Harcot, but unlike Harcot it produces smaller fruits and retains a more traditional European flavour profile. It is valued for its very early harvest window, reliable cropping in warm regions and pleasant, classic apricot taste. Growers recommend it as a typical “seasonal” apricot for fresh consumption and processing — especially for compotes, jams, preserves and brandy — and as a cultivar that fills the gap before the main apricot season begins. Its sensitivity to late frost is comparable to most other early‑flowering cultivars.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Mombacher Frühe tolerates temperatures around –25 °C without difficulty and can withstand short drops a few degrees lower (USDA zone 5b).

Last update 03-05-2026

Dan Heims, the breeder of Pink Skyrocket foamflower from the American nursery Terra Nova, describes the colour of its buds as shrimp‑pink – and he is right. And perhaps to give the cultivar a touch of drama, he named it Pink Skyrocket, because its flower spikes rise like a firework shot into the spring sky, bursting into bright colour against the backdrop of its striking foliage. The individual flowers are tiny and star‑shaped, turning almost white when fully open, which adds movement and lightness to the whole inflorescence, shaped like a narrow, pointed spike.

The leaves are deeply lobed, light green in spring with prominent dark maroon veins. As the season progresses, the leaves darken and often develop purplish to bronze tones that intensify in autumn. The plant forms a compact, regular, gently mounded clump with foliage held close to the ground. In leaf it reaches around 15–20 cm, while the flowering stems rise to about 25–30 cm, giving the flowers a light, airy presence above the mound. The habit is stable and compact, with no tendency to spread aggressively. The cultivar is protected by patents PP13,382 (USA – 2002) and 13697 (EU – 2004).

Hybrid tiarellas rank among the most reliable perennials for partial shade and shade, as they derive from woodland species that naturally grow beneath tree canopies and along moist forest streams. They thrive in sites with dappled or morning sun and afternoon shade, or in all‑day natural shade. They will survive in deep shade, but flowering is reduced and leaf markings may be less pronounced. The soil should be loose, humus‑rich and consistently slightly moist, but never waterlogged. They do not tolerate prolonged drought, yet they do not require heavy watering – it is enough to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Although their foliage is often evergreen to semi‑evergreen, it tends to look tired after winter, and we recommend cutting all leaves back as early as possible before the flower stems begin to emerge. Tiarellas are excellent as underplanting beneath shrubs and trees, in shaded borders, natural woodland plantings, along paths or in mixed shady borders. Feeding with compost or leaf mould enhances both flowering and leaf size. They are resistant to pests and diseases, suffering only in heavy, waterlogged soils where root rot may occur. They perform well in containers provided they have shade and regular watering. Their hardiness ranges from –34 (USDA zone 4) to –40 °C (USDA zone 3) depending on the hybrid lineage.

Last update 27-04-2026

Spring Symphony foamflower captivates with its delicacy and abundant flowering as soon as its raceme-like inflorescences open in April. With a touch of well‑deserved poetry, it appears like a light spring mist with a pink hue rising above the foliage before one fully realises that winter has truly ended. The plant forms a compact, regular clump of deeply lobed, light green leaves marked with broad, dark mahogany veins that look almost hand‑painted. This contrast gives the plant year‑round ornamental value, as the pattern remains visible even outside the flowering season. The flowers emerge with the first truly warm days of spring, usually in mid‑April, arranged in upright racemes of small, star‑shaped white blossoms that open from soft pink buds gradually from the bottom upwards.

Its growth is naturally compact, without any tendency to spread uncontrollably – a clear difference from some botanical species that produce stolons and quickly occupy surrounding space. ‘Spring Symphony’ keeps a tidy shape, forming a dense but non‑aggressive clump, making it suitable even for smaller gardens or for underplanting shrubs. Compared with the species, it has more pronounced leaf markings, a longer flowering period and an overall finer, more cultivated appearance. Its origin is linked to the breeding programme of Terra Nova Nurseries, led by Daniel M. Heims – breeder and co‑founder and president of Terra Nova, one of the most influential American nurseries specialising in modern perennials. The cultivar is protected by the following patents: PP12,397 (USA – 2002) and 11333 (EU – 2003).

Hybrid tiarellas rank among the most reliable perennials for partial shade and shade, as they derive from woodland species that naturally grow beneath tree canopies and along moist forest streams. They thrive in sites with dappled or morning sun and afternoon shade, or in all‑day natural shade. They will survive in deep shade, but flowering is reduced and leaf markings may be less pronounced. The soil should be loose, humus‑rich and consistently slightly moist, but never waterlogged. They do not tolerate prolonged drought, yet they do not require heavy watering – it is enough to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Although their foliage is often evergreen to semi‑evergreen, it tends to look tired after winter, and we recommend cutting all leaves back as early as possible before the flower stems begin to emerge. Tiarellas are excellent as underplanting beneath shrubs and trees, in shaded borders, natural woodland plantings, along paths or in mixed shady borders. Feeding with compost or leaf mould enhances both flowering and leaf size. They are resistant to pests and diseases, suffering only in heavy, waterlogged soils where root rot may occur. They perform well in containers provided they have shade and regular watering. Their hardiness ranges from –34 (USDA zone 4) to –40 °C (USDA zone 3) depending on the hybrid lineage.

Last update 27-04-2026

Old Gold is a Ferdinad’s rock cress variety, one of the less common forms, grown not for its spring flowers – although it flowers freely – but for its foliage, which provides year‑round interest. It forms low, compact cushions pressed closely to the ground, creating small sunlit patches among stones or gravel. The evergreen leaves are fresh green in the centre with a broad, buttery yellow margin. Their shape is unusual: most are narrowly lanceolate and pointed, but some are narrowly obovate with a perfectly rounded tip. They are firm in texture, slightly bristly along the edges and rather glossy. The pure white flowers appear early in spring on slender stems about 20 cm tall. They are arranged in a terminal raceme, though at first glance they resemble elongated panicles. The leaf colour is stable and does not revert to plain green. The exact year of introduction and the name of the breeder remain unknown, but the cultivar has been listed in horticultural catalogues since the 1980s.

Ferdinand’s rock cress is a high‑mountain species that requires a perfectly drained, stony site and does not tolerate winter wet. It grows best in full sun in a poor, mineral substrate with a high proportion of grit or coarse gravel, where water drains quickly and the roots do not remain wet for long. In heavier or richer soils it loses its compact habit and may gradually decline, especially after damp winters. A slight elevation above the surrounding ground, a dry-stone wall or a gravel bed with good air movement helps the plant to dry quickly after rain. Watering is needed only sparingly, mainly in the first year after planting; later it is reliably drought‑tolerant. Feeding is unnecessary and often harmful, as it encourages overly lush growth at the expense of a compact shape. Under ideal conditions it can withstand at least –27 °C, with winter survival determined more by soil moisture than by temperature.

Last update 26-04-2026

Amazing Grace is a popular moss phlox cultivar that has appeared in international nursery catalogues since at least the 1990s. Although its breeder is unknown, it remains one of the most favoured white selections. The flowers are snow‑white with a distinct purplish‑pink eye that creates a gentle two‑tone effect at close range without disturbing the plant’s purity, softness or harmony. It flowers from mid‑April to May and forms dense, evergreen mats with a compact habit free of stray shoots. The evergreen leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, keeping the clump neat even outside the flowering season.

Its optimistic appearance and the clean, delicate colouring of the flowers likely inspired the unknown breeder to name the plant after the older, now iconic spiritual song of the same name Amazing Grace. It is a hymn whose meaning has long surpassed its religious origins: though written in England, it became deeply rooted in African American culture in the United States, as its themes of repentance, suffering and hope resonated strongly with the history of enslaved people. It was the Black church choirs that shaped the version we know today – emotional, profound and associated with human dignity and liberation. The song offers hope and light, much like this beautiful phlox.

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

FABULOUS™ DARK ROSE EYE is quite possibly the most intensely pink‑flowered moss phlox cultivar in the FABULOUS™ series. Not only because of its clear pink flowers but also thanks to the vivid purple pink eye, which amplifies the surrounding pink rather than creating contrast – unlike other cultivars whose darker centres sharpen the outline of the flower instead of deepening the colour. It forms dense, continuous mats that stay evergreen and keep a compact shape without any “stray arms” throughout the year. The leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, so the clump looks clean and tidy even outside the flowering season. The flowers are bright pink with the characteristic notched petals, giving each bloom the look of a tiny star. The flowering period is remarkably long; even at the end of June the plants still carried scattered fresh blooms, although the main flush was in May.

The cultivar was bred by Tobias M. Braeunig and is part of the FABULOUS™ series from the Dutch company Florensis. It was developed for both professional and home gardeners who need compact, uniform plants with long flowering and stable colour. 

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

FABULOUS™ BLUE DARK CENTRE is a light violet‑flowered moss phlox cultivar from the FABULOUS™ series. The flowers have the characteristic notched petals that give each bloom the look of a tiny star. The centre is marked by a striking dark lavender‑purple eye around the throat, accented by golden‑yellow stamens. It forms dense, continuous mats that stay evergreen and keep a compact shape without any “stray arms” throughout the year. The leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, so the clump looks clean and tidy even outside the flowering season. The flowering period is surprisingly long; even at the end of June the plants still carried scattered fresh blooms, although the main flush was in May.

The cultivar was bred by Tobias M. Braeunig and is part of the FABULOUS™ series from the Dutch company Florensis. It was developed for both professional and home gardeners who need compact, uniform plants with long flowering and stable colour. It is protected by European PBR rights No. 56203, granted in 2020.

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

Condo  
Condo is a narrowly growing, upright cultivar with a compact crown that maintains a slender shape and produces only a few side branches. The fruits are medium to large, greenish-yellow with a slight blush, juicy, sweet and aromatic, with a flavour reminiscent of Conference, from which it originated through a cross with Doyenné du Comice. It ripens in late September and is partially self-fertile, capable of setting fruit without a pollinator, although a suitable pollinating partner improves yield significantly. When stored properly, the fruits keep until November or sometimes longer.

Saphira  
Saphira forms a very slender, elegant tree with minimal lateral branching, making it the most “columnar-looking” of the three cultivars. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow-green, with a gently sweet, slightly tangy flavour and juicy flesh. It ripens early, usually in the first half of September, and is self-sterile, though in small gardens it often sets at least a modest crop even without a pollinator. It is suitable only for short-term storage, typically until October.

Decora  
Decora has a narrowly upright habit but produces a somewhat richer framework of branches than Condo or Saphira, giving it a fuller appearance. It originates from a cross of Conference × Clapp’s Favourite. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow-green with a delicate red blush, sweet, soft and very juicy, ideal for fresh eating. It ripens in mid-September and is self-sterile, usually producing only a limited crop without a pollinator. Its storage life is short, generally until October, though it lasts slightly longer in cool conditions.

Narrow-growing pears are an excellent choice for small gardens, tight spaces, front gardens and modern urban plantings where airiness and light are important. Thanks to their slender, upright growth, they can be planted at closer spacing or trained along fences and walls without taking up much room. They thrive best in sunny sites with well-drained, fertile soil, where they enter fruiting quickly and maintain a compact habit. They are also suitable for growing in larger containers, provided they receive regular watering and feeding, making them an attractive option for terraces, balconies and courtyards. Their narrow crowns combine well with other fruit trees and can also serve as vertical accents in ornamental plantings.

Narrow-growing pears require regular but gentle care to maintain their slender shape and support the formation of fruiting spurs. The key task is monitoring the development of longer lateral shoots and, when they appear, carrying out summer pruning by shortening these shoots to two or three buds to keep the crown narrow and light-permeable. Young trees need consistent watering in the first years after planting and during dry periods, as their narrow growth often corresponds with a smaller root system. Feeding should be moderate, ideally with compost or slow-release fertilisers, to support fruiting rather than excessive vegetative growth. It is always advisable to follow the description of each cultivar, especially regarding self-fertility or the need for a pollinator; in small gardens, however, nearby trees in neighbouring plots or limited self-fertility usually ensure at least a basic crop. These pears are hardy to approximately –34 °C.

Last update 18-04-2026

TOURAN™ PINK is a modern moss saxifrage cultivar from the TOURAN™ series, created by the Dutch breeder Martien Everett Gutter and marketed by Syngenta Flowers. It was chosen as a compact, evenly growing form with abundant spring flowering in a cheerful pink shade – neither garish nor washed‑out, simply a pleasant, clear pink. It forms low, firm cushions of small rosettes with finely lobed, deep to fresh green, evergreen leaves that give the plant a moss‑like appearance. To the touch they are surprisingly resilient and dense, so the plant never feels fragile, even in winter. Like the other cultivars in the series, it is valued for its uniformity, stable growth and dependable vigour. It is protected by European plant breeders’ rights under number 39489 (2015).

TOURAN™ PINK performs best where fine texture and spring colour are needed in a small space. It can fill narrow gaps between stones, create a soft transition between perennials and rock, or gently define the edge of a border without drawing too much attention. In cushion plantings it adds rhythm thanks to its regular growth and delicate foliage texture. It pairs well with plants that have more pronounced leaves or a different growth dynamic – for example sun‑loving heucheras, campanulas and other small perennials that, like saxifrages, dislike complete drying out. In semi‑shaded corners it brings freshness and a gentle brightness that reflects off the pink flowers in spring.

Arends saxifrage hybrids share growing requirements shaped by their mountain origins. They thrive in partial shade or in bright positions protected from harsh midday sun. They need cool, humus‑rich and slightly moist soil that must nevertheless be very well drained – prolonged waterlogging as well as complete drought are their greatest risks. A mixture of garden soil with fine gravel or coarse sand is ideal. During the growing season they need a little bit of watering so that the soil never dries out completely but also never remains wet. Feeding should be minimal, just a light application of compost or a weak fertiliser for rocky plants in spring. After flowering it is advisable to remove the spent flower stalks to maintain a compact shape. In older clumps it is common for the centre to open and brown – a natural growth cycle of the rosettes that accelerates with excess moisture or poor air circulation, so very free‑draining soil and watering at the base rather than over the leaves are essential. They are usually hardy to around −34 °C, ensuring reliable overwintering even in colder regions. Troughs and containers are unsuitable, as they heat up quickly in summer and may become waterlogged in winter, conditions saxifrages tolerate poorly.

Last update 14-04-2026