New assortment

Evergreen silverthorn TANEO was selected in the French nursery Pépinières Ladan and seen from up close it looks as if dressed in a soft leather jacket – its young shoots have a warm brown shade reminiscent of natural hide, and the mature leaves glow in dark olive green with a copper undertone and a silvery-beige underside. After the spring flush of brownish shoots, the leaves take a long time to turn green, roughly three to five weeks, giving you plenty of time to enjoy the colour prelude. In summer it offers a dense, almost impenetrable habit, and with the first signs of cooler weather it begins to produce masses of wonderfully fragrant, inconspicuous flowers. They are almost white, speckled with beige dots, and their scent is sweet and strong, reminiscent of carnations and lily of the valley, while some say they also smell fruity notes of pears or plums.

The flowers are heavily visited by bees and bumblebees, and after pollination they fall quickly while small drupes develop in their place over winter. Under our conditions TANEO fruits reliably after mild winters, and in spring the small red drupes ripen and are edible. Their flavour is very good, it resembles sour cherries but sweeter, and the best ones are those that drop naturally when fully ripe. Unripe fruits have a tart, astringent taste similar to kaki.

TANEO grows at a medium rate, roughly 30–40 cm a year, dense, even and compact, giving a naturally tidy appearance and requiring little intervention. Thanks to its good branching it is considered one of the neatest cultivars within the whole hybrid. Its compact growth and dense branching make TANEO a popular choice for hedges – both clipped single‑species hedges and mixed evergreen screens, where it forms an attractive, year‑round barrier alongside other shrubs with similar requirements. For a Mediterranean feel it pairs well with arbutus, laurustinus, holm oak or phillyrea. For a livelier, more varied look reminiscent of western European gardens it works beautifully with photinias, Portuguese laurels, blue and Japanese hollies, evergreen privets and cherry laurels.

Evergreen silverthorn may show a few suddenly dried twigs each year, and here is a simple way to tell whether it is a problem: if you find orange dots of fruiting bodies on the dead twigs, it is the fungal disease Nectria cinnabarina. If there are no orange spots but white fan‑shaped sheets of mycelium under the bark at the base of the shrub or black cords in the soil, it is Armillaria, which attacks the roots. Both diseases occur mainly in heavy, poorly drained soil and are difficult to almost impossible to fight (and win). If none of these signs are present and only a few twigs die each year, it is almost always natural self‑thinning caused by dense growth, shading inside the shrub and occasional stress; in older oleasters this is normal and happens asymmetrically, just as in olives, hollies, holm oaks or cherry laurels and it is not dangerous.

Evergreen silverthorn is one of the toughest evergreen shrubs and thrives in almost any well‑drained soil – from sandy to loamy to stony, ideally with neutral to slightly alkaline pH. It grows best in full sun but also tolerates partial shade very well and will grow even in deeper shade, only becoming slightly looser. After planting it needs regular watering only for a few months to establish, and afterwards watering should be avoided completely – it is highly tolerant of drought and wind. It dislikes heavy, airless and permanently wet soil, where it becomes prone to problems and grows poorly. It tolerates pruning extremely well, with the best time being early spring before growth starts, and throughout the season you can shorten over‑long shoots without concern. Mulching with a 5–7 cm layer helps retain moisture, improves soil structure, supports density and protects against rapid winter temperature fluctuations. It is hardy to about –24 °C (USDA zone 6) and can withstand even a few degrees lower for short periods, with the risk of shoot tips freezing, but it regenerates very well in spring.

Last update 15-05-2026

Lullaby Baby is one of those daylilies that look charming from the very first glance, a small and gentle presence in the border. It carries rather small, about 9 cm wide, firm flowers with slightly ruffled edges that hold their shape well even in warmer weather. It is also a cultivar where colour variation between plants grown by different nurseries, in different climates and countries, can be surprisingly noticeable. Most often it appears as a soft beige with a golden sheen, but I have seen plants with a hint of salmon, as well as those that looked like lemon sorbet with only the faintest touch of yellow. Most often we encountered plants in rich beige to light orange tones with golden highlights. The throat is distinctly yellow‑green and, besides nectar for pollinators, offers a pleasant, sweet and rather strong fragrance. It flowers in the early to midseason, and each bloom remains open longer than usual (extended bloom type). The plant forms a low, compact clump about 40–50 cm tall, with narrow, grass‑like leaves that stay fresh even in warmer periods. The overall impression is calm, harmonious and full of the quiet charm typical of American hybrids from the 1970s.

The cultivar Lullaby Baby was introduced by William Spalding and registered in 1975. Spalding belonged to the group of American hybridisers who, in their time, sought a balance between beauty and garden reliability. His daylilies are known for their gentle pastel shades, pleasant fragrance and long‑lasting blooms. Spalding’s cultivars are still valued today for their dependable performance and natural elegance -unpretentious yet enduring, just like this “lullaby” among daylilies.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 14-05-2026

Longfields Model is an attractive tetraploid daylily from the Dutch Longfields series, introduced in 2021, with large flowers approximately 18 cm across. The base colour is a deep purplish wine, complemented by a lighter slate‑pink watermark above a green throat. The petals are firm, broad, with smooth margins and a velvety surface that enhances the richness of the colour. It flowers in the midseason and is a reblooming type, capable of producing a second flush later in summer. Scapes reach around 80 cm and carry many buds, ensuring an even and extended flowering period. The foliage is grass‑like, deciduous to semi‑evergreen.

The Longfields series originates from the Dutch nursery Heemskerk, which has been working with daylilies since 1965. It is one of the traditional European producers focused on large‑flowered, strongly coloured and garden‑reliable cultivars. Their work is characterised by robust plant habit, saturated colours and cultivars suitable both for mass plantings and for home gardens. The American Daylily Society, which maintains the official cultivar registry, lists an impressive 43 cultivars from this series by 2026, including both diploid and tetraploid introductions.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 13-05-2026

Heavenly Angel Ice is a diploid daylily introduced in 2004, producing large flowers approximately 20 cm across. The blooms are a clear white self with a green yellow throat that shifts to a light green tone towards the centre. It belongs to the Unusual Form – Crispate group, so the petals are distinctly elongated, twisted and morphologically open, giving the flower a pronounced sculptural appearance. It flowers in the midseason to late period, typically from mid July, and is a reblooming type capable of producing a second flush later in the season. Scapes reach about 91 cm, carry five branches and around 27 buds, ensuring a long and even flowering period. The foliage is dormant, allowing the plant to overwinter reliably in colder regions. Overall, it is a dependable white cultivar with a large bloom, a clearly defined unusual form and very good garden performance.

Jamie Gossard is an American hybridiser based in Ohio, known for his long‑term focus on large‑flowered lines, unusual forms and strong morphological expression in daylilies. He is one of the most active breeders of the early 21st century, and the American Daylily Society lists him as the author of an extensive range of introductions characterised by robust habit, high bud counts and pronounced structural variation. His work is valued for systematic line‑building with good substance, strong fertility and emphasis on Unusual Form types, particularly crispate and cascade forms. Heavenly Angel Ice is one of his earlier diploid cultivars, reflecting his interest in clean light colours, large blooms and morphologically distinctive forms with reliable garden performance.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 13-05-2026

Chocolate Candy is a tetraploid daylily cultivar with large flowers, approx. 14–15 cm across, coloured deep red to mahogany‑chocolate with a wine‑toned undertone and a yellow throat. The colour is stable, although it may lighten slightly in extreme heat. The blooms are tubular to broadly funnel‑shaped, with smooth margins and good substance, which allows them to hold their form well even in hot weather. The cultivar flowers from mid‑early to mid‑late season, usually in July, and is reliably remontant, producing a second flush of flowers after a short pause. Fragrance is not listed in the official register, yet in practice the flowers are pleasantly and noticeably scented. The blooms open during the day (diurnal). Scapes reach approximately 65–70 cm in height, carry a medium number of buds and flower evenly. The foliage is deciduous, which ensures excellent winter hardiness even in colder regions. Overall, it is a reliable, richly coloured cultivar with a long flowering season.

‘Chocolate Candy’ was bred by Patrick Stamile, one of the most influential American daylily hybridisers of the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Together with his wife Grace, he worked first in Florida and later in South Carolina, where he created hundreds of cultivars that significantly shaped the modern assortment. Stamile specialised in tetraploid lines, large‑flowered types, bold edges, strong contrasts and cultivars noted for their resilience and abundant flowering. Many of his introductions received prestigious awards such as the Stout Silver Medal or the Award of Merit. His work is valued for its combination of striking aesthetics and garden reliability, making him one of the most frequently cited hybridisers in the databases of the American Daylily Society and among collectors.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 08-05-2026

Gold Spark elderberry belongs among the variegated cultivars, although its foliage is notably elegant and its colouring held in check like pupils of an old boarding school. The leaves are deciduous, pinnate, composed of five to seven leaflets, each with an irregular yellow to cream margin or scattered pale markings near the edges. The colour is strongest in spring and becomes more subdued in summer heat. The leaves are aromatic, as in all black elders.

From May to June the plant bears flat inflorescences 10 to 15 cm across, composed of small white to cream flowers with a light fragrance. They are rich in nectar and pollen and therefore attract pollinators. After flowering it produces drooping clusters of glossy black fruits that ripen from August to October. The fruits are decorative and edible, as in the common black elder. They are used for juices, pressed drinks, syrups and homemade wines and, thanks to their strong flavour, work well in jams, sauces and pies. ‘Gold Spark’ forms upright to broadly funnel‑shaped shrubs, usually 2.5 to 3 metres in height and width, and regular spring pruning keeps it lower and more compact. The cultivar is also listed under the name ‘Alcsam’, but no available source provides a breeder, date of origin or precise provenance. There is currently no patent, registration or official description.

Black elder thrives in full sun or partial shade and grows best in fertile, fresh to moist soils with good drainage; it tolerates less favourable conditions, too, but does not withstand permanently wet ground. It is a fast‑growing, strongly regenerating shrub that responds well to pruning. Annual spring rejuvenation encourages density, vigour and the formation of young shoots, and older shrubs can be cut back more heavily every few years. Both fruits and flowers are used in the kitchen: fruits for juices, pressed drinks, syrups, jams and homemade wines, flowers eaten raw, used for syrups, sparkling drinks, teas or fried as traditional “kosmatice”. The plant is fully hardy to at least –34 °C, undemanding, tolerant of wind and urban conditions and requires no special protection. It can also be grown in containers, but only under certain conditions: it needs a large pot, preferably wider than tall, protected from overheating, with regular watering and excellent drainage, as its shallow roots dry out quickly and suffer from heat in confined spaces. If given enough space, moisture and protection from summer heat, it can thrive for several years on a terrace or balcony, although in the long term it always performs better in the ground.

Last update 08-05-2026

Ruffled Apricot is a tetraploid daylily introduced in 1972, with large flowers approximately 18 cm across. The base colour is apricot, enriched by lavender‑pink midribs and a golden‑apricot throat that shifts to a pale green hue towards the centre. The petal edges are distinctly ruffled, giving the cultivar a soft, decorative character. It flowers early to mid‑season, usually from late June. The blooms are pleasantly fragrant and belong to the extended‑bloom type, remaining open longer than the usual sixteen hours. Scapes reach around 70 cm in height, carry a medium bud count and flower evenly. The foliage is deciduous, ensuring reliable winter hardiness even in colder regions. Overall, it is a cultivar with warm pastel colouring, pronounced ruffling and very dependable garden performance.

S. H. Baker was an American hybridiser active in the 2nd half of the 20th century, part of the generation that developed the first tetraploid daylily lines after their introduction into breeding practice. He worked in the United States, likely in the northern states, focusing on large‑flowered pastel types and on improving petal substance. In the register of the American Daylily Society he appears as the author of several introductions from the 1960s and 1970s, showing his interest in warm apricot tones, fine midrib definition and firm floral structure. He belongs among those hybridisers who did not leave a large portfolio, yet whose work is still valued for solid garden qualities and for helping shape the early tetraploid era.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 08-05-2026

The laurustinus cultivar Rock & Rolla® is one that truly earns its place in the spotlight. It was selected primarily for its unusually large, attractively shaped and coloured young foliage. New shoots emerge in vivid coppery-red tones that gradually mature into deep green. The leathery leaves are evergreen and have characteristically curved margins and a pronounced vein pattern. The shrub grows naturally upright and maintains a neat shape without pruning. In winter it produces very attractive, bright purple-pink buds which open into large, pure white flower clusters from December in the Mediterranean or from early spring in temperate climates. The flowers form dense, full heads that appear far more substantial than those of common cultivars. After flowering, metallic blue fruits follow, persisting into summer and attracting birds. They are inedible.

According to the breeder, Rock & Rolla® reaches around 1.2 metres in height and 0.7 metres in width, though time may show whether it is capable of a little more. It is ideal for smaller gardens, front gardens and low informal hedges. Its compactness is genetic rather than the result of pruning, which was one of the main reasons for its selection. The cultivar was discovered by Thijs Veldhuijzen in the Netherlands and introduced to the market after 2020.

Now, let’s explore its hardiness. In Central Europe, Viburnum tinus has a reputation for being a tender Mediterranean shrub yet experience from growing it since 2004 shows the opposite. It survived the extreme winter of 2006/2007, when temperatures dropped to around minus 27 °C, freezing back to the ground but reliably resprouting from its undamaged base. The leaves are sensitive to severe frost below minus 17 °C only when combined with direct winter sun, so the safest option is to plant it in a position sheltered from early morning light or among other shrubs that provide natural protection. Even without this, the worst that can happen is damage to the upper parts of the branches, which can simply be removed in spring. The root system is hardy to approximately minus 27 °C, meaning that in colder regions it can be grown almost like a perennial, resprouting from the base and forming low, very dense shrubs whenever the upper growth is damaged.
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Viburnum tinus is remarkably healthy in temperate climates and is not usually troubled by pests or diseases. It grows best in fertile, humus-rich and well-drained soil but tolerates much poorer sites as long as they are not waterlogged. It is not demanding regarding pH, although slightly acidic soil enhances the colour of the foliage. It thrives in full sun or partial shade, with full sun giving the best results, and once established it is highly tolerant of prolonged summer drought. In dry winters it benefits from a single deep watering once a month. It does not require shaping, as it naturally maintains a compact habit, but it tolerates any form of pruning. The best time is spring after flowering, when the shape can be refined or spent flower heads shortened, though this will remove the autumn fruit display. Mulching in winter helps protect the roots from temperature fluctuations, and young plants can be sheltered with evergreen boughs. In regions with long periods of frost, winter shade prevents the leaves from being scorched by early morning sun. Fully (stem) hardy to -17 °C (zone 7), and root-hardy down to even -27 °C (USDA zone 5b) on a protected site.

Last update 08-05-2026

PINK REVOLUTION is a foamy bells cultivar whose name is no exaggeration. It represents a genuine turning point in breeding, probably the first cultivar to combine attractive foliage with truly abundant flowering that leaves no doubt this is a revolution. The individual flowers are a deep, saturated pink rather than a pale blush, and their density gives the inflorescences an almost foamy appearance – exceptional among heucherellas. They are larger, denser and more numerous than in comparable cultivars, carried on firm stems that form a continuous layer of pink above the foliage. Under good conditions it flowers continuously from spring to autumn, not in a single flush, which is unusual for heucherellas and in practice means the pink canopy persists for months. The leaves show the deeply lobed shape of tiarellas, but the firmness, texture and year‑round durability of modern heucheras. You can easily see the strong contrast between the darker centre and lighter margin and appreciate the colour stability throughout the season. The habit is compact and evenly filled, with good heat tolerance and the ability to maintain shape without becoming leggy.

PINK REVOLUTION was bred by Joke Dragt in Zuidwolde, the Netherlands, as part of a programme focused on long‑flowering, cold‑hardy heucherellas. It originated from a controlled cross between a Heuchera sanguinea seedling line and the Tiarella cultivar ‘Pink Skyrocket’. Dragt selected the plant in 2015, and the cultivar was released after the granting of the US patent USPP30656 and the European PBR CPVO 52369 in 2019. Joke Dragt specialises in breeding Heucherella and Heuchera hybrids with an emphasis on long flowering, strong flowering stems, powdery mildew resistance and reliable garden performance, and PINK REVOLUTION is among his most notable achievements to date.

In the garden, PINK REVOLUTION foamy bells acts as a colour beacon. For many weeks it reliably lights up its surroundings with its striking pink, and afterwards offers foliage texture and colour that pair beautifully with ferns, bergenias, pulmonarias, sedges and other perennials for partial shade. It performs excellently in woodland and naturalistic plantings, where keeping a greener foliage tone helps the composition look as natural as possible. In a cottage‑style garden you can afford more colour play and combine it with dark‑leaved geraniums or unusual corydalis. In modern plantings it looks best as a monoculture, planted in larger single‑species drifts, whether in beds or ornamental containers.

Foamy bells thrive in moist, humus‑rich soil, which keeps the roots cool and prevents summer dormancy. Their condition remains stable with a fine bark mulch which protects the shallow root system and maintains even moisture. Flowering is extended not only by occasional feeding but also by regular removal of spent flower stems, while the foliage remains compact without intervention. Every two to three years, replanting into fresh soil or lightly dividing the clump restores vigour. Heucherellas tolerate moist periods well but dislike prolonged waterlogging; in heat they appreciate shaded roots and consistent watering. Thanks to the tiarella contribution they are generally more resistant to powdery mildew and rarely require chemical protection. They are reliably hardy, and in snow‑free winters a thin layer of leaves helps protect the crown from freeze–thaw cycles. A practical tip: in spring they respond best to a small dose of compost, which supports growth and flowering without the risk of over‑feeding. They are hardy to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3) and can be grown year‑round even in outdoor containers.

Last update 08-05-2026

Screamcicle is a tetraploid daylily bred by Cochenour and introduced in 2003. The flowers are large, nearly 20 cm across, with a strong orange colour and a red‑orange eye above a yellow‑orange throat. The petals are ruffled and slightly twisted, typical of the Unusual Form – Crispate type, giving the bloom a lively, sculptural appearance. It flowers early to mid‑season and often reblooms, producing a second flush in late summer. The blooms open during the day, have good substance and retain their saturated colour even in full sun. Scapes reach around 89 cm in height and carry about 28 buds on five branches, ensuring a long and abundant flowering period. The foliage is dormant, allowing the plant to overwinter reliably. Overall, this is a cultivar with warm, vivid colouring, a dynamic floral form and very dependable garden performance.

Cochenour is an American hybridiser active at the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, belonging to the generation that pushed the aesthetics of Unusual Form daylilies towards greater movement and colour energy. In the register of the American Daylily Society he appears as the author of several tetraploid cultivars characterised by a strong orange palette, contrasting red‑orange eyes and the use of genetic lines derived from ‘Primal Scream’ and ‘Outrageous’. His cultivars are noted for their strong floral substance, high bud count and ability to rebloom, making them reliable garden plants. Although his portfolio is not extensive, Cochenour is among the hybridisers who helped define the modern form of UF Crispate daylilies — blooms with relaxed, twisted petals and a dynamic expression. ‘Screamcicle’ is his best‑known introduction and remains a popular cultivar in gardens and collections for its colour intensity and distinctive floral form.

Daylilies thrive in full sun or light partial shade and grow best in deeper, fertile, well‑drained yet consistently slightly moist soils. Thanks to their fleshy roots (rhizomes) they tolerate even prolonged dry periods without damage. They flower most abundantly in sunny positions and when clumps are divided every four to six years, which maintains vigour and prevents congestion in the centre. After flowering, the foliage of some cultivars may look tired, so it is advisable to remove the entire spent scapes and, when needed, the oldest or damaged leaves to maintain a clean appearance and encourage further blooming. Young shoots can be attractive to small shelled slugs, which slightly damage them visually, particularly in moist spring weather. The roots are very hardy in the ground and overwinter reliably even in severe winters; most cultivars tolerate temperatures down to around –40 °C (USDA zone 3). In containers they perform well only in sufficiently large pots with quality substrate, regular watering, feeding and protection from summer overheating, otherwise they dry out quickly and reduce flowering. They are long‑lived, reliable, undemanding and generally free from serious pests and diseases.

Last update 08-05-2026

Supaga is a Latvian table grape with very light, almost white berries that give the vine a clean, delicate appearance. The clusters are medium to large, conical, and often carry short side wings, which makes them look naturally irregular. The berries are oval to slightly pointed, with a thin, translucent skin that turns pale yellow on the sun‑exposed side. They contain seeds. The flesh is soft, juicy, and sweet, with a faintly tangy note and a characteristic foxy flavour – a gentle strawberry‑like, lightly floral aroma reminiscent of American interspecific varieties, yet neither heavy nor intrusive. It ripens early, usually in the first half of August, and thanks to its vigorous growth and reliable wood maturation it produces consistent crops even in cooler regions. The variety tolerates humid climates well and shows increased resistance to fungal diseases, making it suitable for northern gardens.

Supaga was created in Latvia in 1959 by crossing Madeleine Angevine × Dvietes Zila, carried out by breeder Pauls Sukatnieks; it was selected in 1968. It is an interspecific hybrid with a fully documented pedigree confirmed by SSR markers and is registered in the European catalogue. It combines the finesse of its European parent with the resilience and aromatic character of eastern Baltic interspecific lines, making it a dependable table grape for cooler viticultural zones.

The vine requires a warm, sunny and well-ventilated site where the foliage dries quickly after rain. It thrives on slopes or against walls that accumulate heat. The soil should be well-drained, moderately fertile and neutral to slightly alkaline; the vine dislikes acidic soils and suffers from root diseases in heavy, waterlogged ground. Mulching is useful only where the soil is very light and dries out quickly -otherwise it is better to leave the surface open so it can warm during the day and dry rapidly after rain. Watering is important mainly until early summer; later it is needed only during prolonged drought and always at the base of the plant, never over the foliage.
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Winter pruning is carried out after the worst frosts have passed. Two to three buds are left on last year’s lateral shoots, as the vine fruits on two-year-old wood. From mid-July, new shoots are pinched a few centimetres above the cluster to direct the plant’s energy into ripening. In summer, leaves shading the fruit can be gradually removed to improve aeration and colouring. Fallen leaves should be cleared regularly, as they may harbour fungal spores and overwintering pests. Fertilisation should be moderate — excess nitrogen leads to vigorous growth at the expense of fruit quality. A pre-budbreak spray can be used against mites; in the event of powdery mildew, an appropriate fungicide is necessary. Wasps should be trapped to prevent damage to ripening berries. Supaga belongs among interspecific hybrids tolerating colder regions and wetter conditions. It is hardy to about –25 °C, still a sheltered position is recommended for better ripening.

Last update 06-05-2026

Rhea is a modern Slovak table grape cultivar with rose‑coloured berries that look remarkably elegant on the vine. The clusters are medium to large, cylindrical‑conical, often with small wings. The berries have a thin, rose to rose‑red skin that develops warmer tones on the sun‑exposed side. The flesh is juicy, with a neutral, clean flavour free of muscat or foxiness, giving the variety a very universal character – unobtrusive, yet pleasantly fresh. The seeds are only rudimentary, so they hardly interfere when eaten, and in practice the cultivar is perceived as almost seedless. The vine grows moderately vigorously, ripens its wood well and produces regular, balanced crops provided it receives enough warmth and sunlight.

Rhea was bred in Slovakia in 1969 at the Research and Breeding Station for Enology and Viticulture (VSSVVM) by Dorota Pospíšilová. It is a pure Vitis vinifera subsp. sativa, created by crossing Chaouch Rozovyi (Ceaush Roz) × Nedeltcheff Magvatlana – two Eastern European table cultivars known for their large, attractive clusters. The variety has a fully documented pedigree supported by SSR markers and is registered in the European Catalogue (protected since 2009). In character it represents a modern table grape: rose‑coloured, appealing clusters, almost seedless berries, a neutral flavour and reliable cropping under Central European conditions.

The vine requires a warm, sunny and well-ventilated site where the foliage dries quickly after rain. It thrives on slopes or against walls that accumulate heat. The soil should be well-drained, moderately fertile and neutral to slightly alkaline; the vine dislikes acidic soils and suffers from root diseases in heavy, waterlogged ground. Mulching is useful only where the soil is very light and dries out quickly — otherwise it is better to leave the surface open so it can warm during the day and dry rapidly after rain. Watering is important mainly until early summer; later it is needed only during prolonged drought and always at the base of the plant, never over the foliage.
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Winter pruning is carried out after the worst frosts have passed. Two to three buds are left on last year’s lateral shoots, as the vine fruits on two-year-old wood. From mid-July, new shoots are pinched a few centimetres above the cluster to direct the plant’s energy into ripening. In summer, leaves shading the fruit can be gradually removed to improve aeration and colouring. Fallen leaves should be cleared regularly, as they may harbour fungal spores and overwintering pests. Fertilisation should be moderate — excess nitrogen leads to vigorous growth at the expense of fruit quality. A pre-budbreak spray can be used against mites; in the event of powdery mildew, an appropriate fungicide is necessary. Wasps should be trapped to prevent damage to ripening berries. Rhea belongs to table grapes that require warm, sunny sites; its frost tolerance corresponds to typical Vitis vinifera table cultivars (around –25 °C), so sheltered positions are recommended in colder regions.

Last update 06-05-2026

Primus grapevine is a variety that does not seek to impress with spectacle but with reliability. Its white clusters with thin skins have a clean, neutral flavour free of foxiness, which is pleasantly surprising in an interspecific hybrid. The vine grows evenly, ripens its wood well and does not tend towards excessive vigour. The clusters are medium-sized and compact, the berries firm and resistant to cracking. Primus ripens relatively early, reflecting its parentage, and tolerates humid conditions and disease pressure better than pure Vitis vinifera. Its flavour brings no aromatic extravagance, but rather clarity and simplicity, making it suitable for light wines or as a table grape with minimal seeds.

The variety was bred by Alberto Pirovano (1884–1973) in Italy in 1901 by crossing Madeleine Royale with Ferdinand de Lesseps, although genetic analyses later clarified that the true maternal parent is Madeleine Angevine. Primus is a typical representative of the early era of interspecific breeding: it combines the finesse of the European vine with the resilience of American species, has a fully documented pedigree and SSR markers, and is registered in the European catalogue. Its name, Primus – “first” – reflects the ambition to stand at the forefront of a new generation of varieties intended to provide stability at a time when Europe was seeking a way out of the phylloxera crisis, and in this respect it succeeded.

The vine requires a warm, sunny and well-ventilated site where the foliage dries quickly after rain. It thrives on slopes or against walls that accumulate heat. The soil should be well-drained, moderately fertile and neutral to slightly alkaline; the vine dislikes acidic soils and suffers from root diseases in heavy, waterlogged ground. Mulching is useful only where the soil is very light and dries out quickly — otherwise it is better to leave the surface open so it can warm during the day and dry rapidly after rain. Watering is important mainly until early summer; later it is needed only during prolonged drought and always at the base of the plant, never over the foliage.
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Winter pruning is carried out after the worst frosts have passed. Two to three buds are left on last year’s lateral shoots, as the vine fruits on two-year-old wood. From mid-July, new shoots are pinched a few centimetres above the cluster to direct the plant’s energy into ripening. In summer, leaves shading the fruit can be gradually removed to improve aeration and colouring. Fallen leaves should be cleared regularly, as they may harbour fungal spores and overwintering pests. Fertilisation should be moderate — excess nitrogen leads to vigorous growth at the expense of fruit quality. A pre-budbreak spray can be used against mites; in the event of powdery mildew, an appropriate fungicide is necessary. Wasps should be trapped to prevent damage to ripening berries. Primus tolerates humidity better and has higher natural disease resistance, so it requires fewer treatments against fungal infections. It ripens early, so late pinching should be avoided to prevent delaying maturity. Its frost tolerance is slightly higher than that of classic European varieties (around –25 °C), but it still benefits from a warm, sheltered site.

Last update 06-05-2026

Rotundifolium is an irresistibly charming little chap. It is a compact, slow‑growing cultivar of the evergreen Japanese privet, distinguished by its rounded leaves that gave the plant its name. The foliage is evergreen, small, leathery and dark green, with slightly wavy margins and a glossy surface. Young leaves are lighter in colour and gradually deepen to a rich green as they mature. The plant forms a dense, regular shrub that maintains its shape even without frequent pruning. Flowering is possible but very rare. This cultivar flowers far less freely than the species, and blooms usually appear only on older specimens and in limited quantity; most growers never encounter flowering in practice. The flowers are white, small and fragrant, and appear from June to July. The fruits are small, black, glossy berries that often persist into winter.

Thanks to its compact growth and dense foliage, ‘Rotundifolium’ is ideal for low hedges, path edging or container planting – with the proviso that containers must be overwintered in a bright, frost‑free place. In smaller gardens it serves as a reliable evergreen element that maintains structure even in winter. It tolerates pruning, urban conditions and drought well, and is suitable for shaped or formal plantings. In combination with plants of finer texture (e.g. azaleas, choisyas) it creates a striking contrast.

‘Rotundifolium’ is a historical garden form of Japanese privet, described as early as 1851 by the botanist Blume. It most likely originates from Japan, where it arose as a spontaneous mutation or an early garden selection. It also appears in the literature under the synonym ‘Coriaceum’. It is a very old cultivar whose precise breeding history has not been preserved.

Evergreen privet requires a well‑drained, moderately fertile soil and thrives in full sun as well as partial shade; in deep shade it flowers less freely and gradually loses its compact form. Permanently waterlogged, heavy clay or otherwise impermeable soils lead to root problems and eventual decline. Once established, it tolerates prolonged summer drought and high temperatures remarkably well, but in winter it is accustomed to regular rainfall. In dry winters, it should therefore be watered thoroughly once a month during frost‑free periods. Mulching the root zone helps retain moisture and provides protection against frost; a generous mulch is recommended throughout the year. Feeding is not essential, though a single application of a balanced fertiliser in spring can be beneficial. To encourage density, maintain shape or limit size, prune after flowering or in late winter, never removing more than one third of the crown at a time. Both fruits and leaves are mildly toxic, so access by children and animals should be prevented. For hedging, plants should be spaced 0.6–1.2 m apart; for specimens or shaped forms, allow 2–4 m. In sheltered locations in Central Europe, Texanum has already withstood temperatures down to −18 °C (USDA zone 7) without damage, and further testing is ongoing.

Last update 04-05-2026

The fruit of Goldrich apricot is large to very large, broadly oval, with a smooth, firm skin of deep orange colour and a fine red blush on the sun‑exposed side. The flesh is orange, firm and moderately juicy, with a balanced ratio of sugars and acids; the flavour is sweet, refreshing and slightly spicy. The stone is large and separates cleanly. The tree is vigorous, forming a spreading crown with long, strong shoots and abundant fruiting wood. Flowering is mid‑late; the flowers are white and medium‑sized. The cultivar is partially self‑fertile and requires pollinators (e.g. ‘Hargrand’, ‘Harcot’) for heavy yield.

‘Goldrich’ was bred in the United States (Washington State University, Pullman) in 1969 from the cross ‘Sungold’ × ‘Perfection’. It was introduced into the European assortment in the 1980s and remains one of the most widely grown large‑fruited cultivars for commercial production. It is noted for its high frost resistance, particularly of the wood, and good tolerance to late spring frosts, which makes it suitable even for Central Europe. It ripens mid‑early to mid‑late, approximately 7–10 days after ‘Velkopavlovická’. The fruit are very attractive and firm, with excellent transport and storage qualities, and are therefore often used for the export market. The flavour is balanced, less aromatic than that of southern cultivars, yet stable and reliable. For Central Europe, ‘Goldrich’ is highly suitable: it tolerates winter frosts well (wood down to −25 °C), the flower buds are moderately hardy (−18 °C), and the tree shows strong growth and high vigour. It requires a sunny, warm site and well‑drained soil; in humid locations it may suffer from gummosis. Under optimal conditions it produces large, uniform fruit of high market value and dependable yield.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Goldrich tolerates temperatures around –25 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 5b).

Last update 03-05-2026

The fruit of Rouge du Roussillon apricot is small to medium‑sized (35–55 mm in diameter), round to slightly oval, with a deep orange ground colour and fine red speckling or a light red blush covering part of the surface. The skin is thin and finely velvety; the flesh is soft, juicy and highly aromatic, with a high sugar content — above 12 °Brix — and low acidity. The flavour is sweet and full, with notes reminiscent of peach and nectarine, characteristic of the apricots of the Roussillon region. The stone is small and separates cleanly. The tree has medium vigour and forms a spreading crown with abundant fruiting wood on short spurs. Flowering is early; the flowers are white to slightly pink‑tinged, medium‑sized. The cultivar is self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set.

‘Rouge du Roussillon’ is a traditional regional cultivar grown in southern France’s Roussillon since the 19th century — the first written references date to 1825. In the mid‑20th century it accounted for two‑thirds of all apricots grown in the region, before gradually being replaced by modern cultivars with larger fruit. Today it forms part of the protected designation of origin AOP “Abricots Rouges du Roussillon”, which also includes the cultivars Aviéra, Royal Roussillon and Avikandi. It is a very early cultivar, harvested from late June to early July. Thanks to its tender flesh and strong aroma, it is ideal for fresh consumption, jams and pâtisserie. The fruit is picked by hand at full maturity, as it is soft and prone to bruising. For Central Europe it is suitable only for the warmest regions with long summers and sheltered sites. The wood has medium frost resistance (−20 to −22 °C). In cooler areas it suffers from irregular cropping and weaker colouring. Under optimal conditions, however, it produces exceptionally aromatic, sweet fruit with its characteristic red speckling, making it one of the most charming historic apricots of the Mediterranean.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Rouge du Roussillon tolerates temperatures around –22 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 6).

Last update 03-05-2026

Farbaly apricot produces medium‑sized to large, broadly oval fruit with a deep orange skin and a pronounced, evenly distributed red blush that may cover up to half of the surface. The skin is finely velvety, slightly firmer, and tolerates handling and transport well. The flesh is orange, firm and very juicy, with a high sugar content and a distinctly aromatic, sweet‑spicy flavour typical of this cultivar. The stone is medium‑sized and separates cleanly. The tree has medium vigour and forms a broadly spreading, well‑branched crown with abundant fruiting wood on short spurs. Shoots are straight, medium‑thick, with smooth orange‑brown bark. The leaves are broadly ovate, deep green, carried on longer petioles, with a finely serrated margin. Flowering is mid‑early; the flowers are white to slightly pink‑tinged, medium‑sized, with prominent anthers. The cultivar is functionally self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set and size.

‘Farbaly’ is a modern French cultivar originating from the NEWCOT breeding programme, focused on bicoloured, high‑quality and reliably fruiting apricots for the warmer parts of Europe. It was bred by Marie‑France Bois and introduced into the European assortment by I.P.S. Montélimar. It has been grown commercially since around 2008–2010; its exact parentage has not been disclosed. It ripens shortly after the very earliest cultivars such as Early Orange or Luizet, but offers larger, more intensely coloured fruit with a strong red blush and higher sugar levels. Compared with classic European cultivars such as Velkopavlovická, it is earlier, more colourful and sweeter, but requires a warmer site to develop its full flavour and fruit size. In cooler regions it may suffer from irregular cropping, weaker colouring and lower sugar content, as its earliness and quality are strongly dependent on temperature and sunlight. In suitable conditions, however, it ranks among the most attractive early apricots currently available.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Farbaly tolerates temperatures around –22 °C without difficulty (USDA zone 6).

Last update 03-05-2026

Mombacher Frühe apricot produces medium‑sized, round to slightly flattened fruits with a yellow‑orange skin and a fine red blush on the sun‑exposed side; the surface is softly velvety and the flesh is orange, juicy, tender, easily separating from the stone, with a balanced, aromatic flavour. The tree grows moderately to strongly, forming a broad, spreading crown with dense fruiting wood on short shoots. Young shoots are straight and medium‑strong, with smooth light‑brown bark that darkens with age. The leaves are broadly ovate, deep green, on long, often slightly reddish petioles, with a finely serrated margin. Flowering is very early; the flowers are white to faintly pink, medium‑sized, with reddish sepals and prominent stamens. The cultivar behaves as functionally self‑fertile, though the presence of other apricots improves fruit set.

Mombacher Frühe originates from Mombach near Mainz in Germany and ranks among the earliest European apricots — it ripens significantly earlier than classic cultivars such as Velkopavlovická or Bergeron, and in timing it approaches the very earliest types like Early Orange, though it is more aromatic and finer in texture. In flowering it belongs to the very first cultivars, similar to Harcot, but unlike Harcot it produces smaller fruits and retains a more traditional European flavour profile. It is valued for its very early harvest window, reliable cropping in warm regions and pleasant, classic apricot taste. Growers recommend it as a typical “seasonal” apricot for fresh consumption and processing — especially for compotes, jams, preserves and brandy — and as a cultivar that fills the gap before the main apricot season begins. Its sensitivity to late frost is comparable to most other early‑flowering cultivars.

Apricots require a warm, airy site with deep, well‑drained soil, as they tolerate short periods of drought far better than prolonged waterlogging, which leads to root dieback and canker‑type necroses. In the first years after planting they need regular watering; later, moderate irrigation and mulching are preferable to excessive watering. Nitrogen is problematic in apricots: it promotes vigorous growth but impairs wood maturation, increases frost sensitivity and encourages brown rot of the fruit, so potassium and magnesium are generally more beneficial. Pruning must be approached with care — apricots bear on two‑year‑old and older wood and do not tolerate heavy winter cuts into old branches, especially in cold, wet weather, which easily opens the way to cankers. The best approach is light summer to late‑summer pruning that keeps the crown airy, removes overloaded or crossing branches and gradually renews fruiting wood, but it should not be performed mechanically every year. Large cuts should be made only when truly necessary — apricots do not respond well to “rejuvenation pruning” on old wood.
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The most significant diseases include blossom and shoot blight, brown rot of the fruit, apricot rust and various forms of branch and trunk canker. Blossom blight attacks flowers during cold, wet weather; flowers turn brown and remain attached, shoots die back and exude gum. The same pathogen later causes fruit rot, especially when “mummies” remain on the tree. Apricot rust leads to premature leaf fall and weakens the tree. Hygiene is the foundation of protection: removing mummified fruits, heavily infected branches and fallen rotten fruit. Chemical treatments are meaningful only when timed to risk periods — wet spring during bloom and the pre‑harvest period — otherwise it is better to leave the tree alone rather than chase every minor symptom. Apricots are relatively short‑lived fruit trees: under good conditions they may reach 40–50 years, but the period of high‑quality, regular cropping usually lasts 15–25 years. Older trees show greater yield fluctuations, more frequent branch dieback and increased susceptibility to cankers; at a certain point it is wiser to plant a new tree than to maintain an ageing one. European apricots generally have good winter hardiness in the wood down to at least –25 °C, though differences between cultivars are notable. Mombacher Frühe tolerates temperatures around –25 °C without difficulty and can withstand short drops a few degrees lower (USDA zone 5b).

Last update 03-05-2026

Dan Heims, the breeder of Pink Skyrocket foamflower from the American nursery Terra Nova, describes the colour of its buds as shrimp‑pink – and he is right. And perhaps to give the cultivar a touch of drama, he named it Pink Skyrocket, because its flower spikes rise like a firework shot into the spring sky, bursting into bright colour against the backdrop of its striking foliage. The individual flowers are tiny and star‑shaped, turning almost white when fully open, which adds movement and lightness to the whole inflorescence, shaped like a narrow, pointed spike.

The leaves are deeply lobed, light green in spring with prominent dark maroon veins. As the season progresses, the leaves darken and often develop purplish to bronze tones that intensify in autumn. The plant forms a compact, regular, gently mounded clump with foliage held close to the ground. In leaf it reaches around 15–20 cm, while the flowering stems rise to about 25–30 cm, giving the flowers a light, airy presence above the mound. The habit is stable and compact, with no tendency to spread aggressively. The cultivar is protected by patents PP13,382 (USA – 2002) and 13697 (EU – 2004).

Hybrid tiarellas rank among the most reliable perennials for partial shade and shade, as they derive from woodland species that naturally grow beneath tree canopies and along moist forest streams. They thrive in sites with dappled or morning sun and afternoon shade, or in all‑day natural shade. They will survive in deep shade, but flowering is reduced and leaf markings may be less pronounced. The soil should be loose, humus‑rich and consistently slightly moist, but never waterlogged. They do not tolerate prolonged drought, yet they do not require heavy watering – it is enough to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Although their foliage is often evergreen to semi‑evergreen, it tends to look tired after winter, and we recommend cutting all leaves back as early as possible before the flower stems begin to emerge. Tiarellas are excellent as underplanting beneath shrubs and trees, in shaded borders, natural woodland plantings, along paths or in mixed shady borders. Feeding with compost or leaf mould enhances both flowering and leaf size. They are resistant to pests and diseases, suffering only in heavy, waterlogged soils where root rot may occur. They perform well in containers provided they have shade and regular watering. Their hardiness ranges from –34 (USDA zone 4) to –40 °C (USDA zone 3) depending on the hybrid lineage.

Last update 27-04-2026

Spring Symphony foamflower captivates with its delicacy and abundant flowering as soon as its raceme-like inflorescences open in April. With a touch of well‑deserved poetry, it appears like a light spring mist with a pink hue rising above the foliage before one fully realises that winter has truly ended. The plant forms a compact, regular clump of deeply lobed, light green leaves marked with broad, dark mahogany veins that look almost hand‑painted. This contrast gives the plant year‑round ornamental value, as the pattern remains visible even outside the flowering season. The flowers emerge with the first truly warm days of spring, usually in mid‑April, arranged in upright racemes of small, star‑shaped white blossoms that open from soft pink buds gradually from the bottom upwards.

Its growth is naturally compact, without any tendency to spread uncontrollably – a clear difference from some botanical species that produce stolons and quickly occupy surrounding space. ‘Spring Symphony’ keeps a tidy shape, forming a dense but non‑aggressive clump, making it suitable even for smaller gardens or for underplanting shrubs. Compared with the species, it has more pronounced leaf markings, a longer flowering period and an overall finer, more cultivated appearance. Its origin is linked to the breeding programme of Terra Nova Nurseries, led by Daniel M. Heims – breeder and co‑founder and president of Terra Nova, one of the most influential American nurseries specialising in modern perennials. The cultivar is protected by the following patents: PP12,397 (USA – 2002) and 11333 (EU – 2003).

Hybrid tiarellas rank among the most reliable perennials for partial shade and shade, as they derive from woodland species that naturally grow beneath tree canopies and along moist forest streams. They thrive in sites with dappled or morning sun and afternoon shade, or in all‑day natural shade. They will survive in deep shade, but flowering is reduced and leaf markings may be less pronounced. The soil should be loose, humus‑rich and consistently slightly moist, but never waterlogged. They do not tolerate prolonged drought, yet they do not require heavy watering – it is enough to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Although their foliage is often evergreen to semi‑evergreen, it tends to look tired after winter, and we recommend cutting all leaves back as early as possible before the flower stems begin to emerge. Tiarellas are excellent as underplanting beneath shrubs and trees, in shaded borders, natural woodland plantings, along paths or in mixed shady borders. Feeding with compost or leaf mould enhances both flowering and leaf size. They are resistant to pests and diseases, suffering only in heavy, waterlogged soils where root rot may occur. They perform well in containers provided they have shade and regular watering. Their hardiness ranges from –34 (USDA zone 4) to –40 °C (USDA zone 3) depending on the hybrid lineage.

Last update 27-04-2026

Old Gold is a Ferdinad’s rock cress variety, one of the less common forms, grown not for its spring flowers – although it flowers freely – but for its foliage, which provides year‑round interest. It forms low, compact cushions pressed closely to the ground, creating small sunlit patches among stones or gravel. The evergreen leaves are fresh green in the centre with a broad, buttery yellow margin. Their shape is unusual: most are narrowly lanceolate and pointed, but some are narrowly obovate with a perfectly rounded tip. They are firm in texture, slightly bristly along the edges and rather glossy. The pure white flowers appear early in spring on slender stems about 20 cm tall. They are arranged in a terminal raceme, though at first glance they resemble elongated panicles. The leaf colour is stable and does not revert to plain green. The exact year of introduction and the name of the breeder remain unknown, but the cultivar has been listed in horticultural catalogues since the 1980s.

Ferdinand’s rock cress is a high‑mountain species that requires a perfectly drained, stony site and does not tolerate winter wet. It grows best in full sun in a poor, mineral substrate with a high proportion of grit or coarse gravel, where water drains quickly and the roots do not remain wet for long. In heavier or richer soils it loses its compact habit and may gradually decline, especially after damp winters. A slight elevation above the surrounding ground, a dry-stone wall or a gravel bed with good air movement helps the plant to dry quickly after rain. Watering is needed only sparingly, mainly in the first year after planting; later it is reliably drought‑tolerant. Feeding is unnecessary and often harmful, as it encourages overly lush growth at the expense of a compact shape. Under ideal conditions it can withstand at least –27 °C, with winter survival determined more by soil moisture than by temperature.

Last update 26-04-2026

Amazing Grace is a popular moss phlox cultivar that has appeared in international nursery catalogues since at least the 1990s. Although its breeder is unknown, it remains one of the most favoured white selections. The flowers are snow‑white with a distinct purplish‑pink eye that creates a gentle two‑tone effect at close range without disturbing the plant’s purity, softness or harmony. It flowers from mid‑April to May and forms dense, evergreen mats with a compact habit free of stray shoots. The evergreen leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, keeping the clump neat even outside the flowering season.

Its optimistic appearance and the clean, delicate colouring of the flowers likely inspired the unknown breeder to name the plant after the older, now iconic spiritual song of the same name Amazing Grace. It is a hymn whose meaning has long surpassed its religious origins: though written in England, it became deeply rooted in African American culture in the United States, as its themes of repentance, suffering and hope resonated strongly with the history of enslaved people. It was the Black church choirs that shaped the version we know today – emotional, profound and associated with human dignity and liberation. The song offers hope and light, much like this beautiful phlox.

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

FABULOUS™ DARK ROSE EYE is quite possibly the most intensely pink‑flowered moss phlox cultivar in the FABULOUS™ series. Not only because of its clear pink flowers but also thanks to the vivid purple pink eye, which amplifies the surrounding pink rather than creating contrast – unlike other cultivars whose darker centres sharpen the outline of the flower instead of deepening the colour. It forms dense, continuous mats that stay evergreen and keep a compact shape without any “stray arms” throughout the year. The leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, so the clump looks clean and tidy even outside the flowering season. The flowers are bright pink with the characteristic notched petals, giving each bloom the look of a tiny star. The flowering period is remarkably long; even at the end of June the plants still carried scattered fresh blooms, although the main flush was in May.

The cultivar was bred by Tobias M. Braeunig and is part of the FABULOUS™ series from the Dutch company Florensis. It was developed for both professional and home gardeners who need compact, uniform plants with long flowering and stable colour. 

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

FABULOUS™ BLUE DARK CENTRE is a light violet‑flowered moss phlox cultivar from the FABULOUS™ series. The flowers have the characteristic notched petals that give each bloom the look of a tiny star. The centre is marked by a striking dark lavender‑purple eye around the throat, accented by golden‑yellow stamens. It forms dense, continuous mats that stay evergreen and keep a compact shape without any “stray arms” throughout the year. The leaves are narrow to needle‑like, medium to light green, so the clump looks clean and tidy even outside the flowering season. The flowering period is surprisingly long; even at the end of June the plants still carried scattered fresh blooms, although the main flush was in May.

The cultivar was bred by Tobias M. Braeunig and is part of the FABULOUS™ series from the Dutch company Florensis. It was developed for both professional and home gardeners who need compact, uniform plants with long flowering and stable colour. It is protected by European PBR rights No. 56203, granted in 2020.

Moss phlox needs full sun and well‑drained, rather lean soil. Once established, it copes well with long dry spells, handles hot, scorching summers without trouble and does not require regular feeding. It is not fussy about soil pH. It spreads sideways as a low groundcover, so it is practical to cover the surrounding soil with a weed‑control fabric to stop grasses and weeds from growing up through the flowering cushions. After flowering, it is helpful to give the plants a light trim – with hand shears or even a “lawn‑mower style” pass – which keeps them compact and prevents the centre of the clump from opening up. They are extremely hardy, down to about −45 °C (USDA zone 2), and grow well in troughs and outdoor containers. 

Last update 24-04-2026

Condo  
Condo is a narrowly growing, upright cultivar with a compact crown that maintains a slender shape and produces only a few side branches. The fruits are medium to large, greenish-yellow with a slight blush, juicy, sweet and aromatic, with a flavour reminiscent of Conference, from which it originated through a cross with Doyenné du Comice. It ripens in late September and is partially self-fertile, capable of setting fruit without a pollinator, although a suitable pollinating partner improves yield significantly. When stored properly, the fruits keep until November or sometimes longer.

Saphira  
Saphira forms a very slender, elegant tree with minimal lateral branching, making it the most “columnar-looking” of the three cultivars. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow-green, with a gently sweet, slightly tangy flavour and juicy flesh. It ripens early, usually in the first half of September, and is self-sterile, though in small gardens it often sets at least a modest crop even without a pollinator. It is suitable only for short-term storage, typically until October.

Decora  
Decora has a narrowly upright habit but produces a somewhat richer framework of branches than Condo or Saphira, giving it a fuller appearance. It originates from a cross of Conference × Clapp’s Favourite. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow-green with a delicate red blush, sweet, soft and very juicy, ideal for fresh eating. It ripens in mid-September and is self-sterile, usually producing only a limited crop without a pollinator. Its storage life is short, generally until October, though it lasts slightly longer in cool conditions.

Narrow-growing pears are an excellent choice for small gardens, tight spaces, front gardens and modern urban plantings where airiness and light are important. Thanks to their slender, upright growth, they can be planted at closer spacing or trained along fences and walls without taking up much room. They thrive best in sunny sites with well-drained, fertile soil, where they enter fruiting quickly and maintain a compact habit. They are also suitable for growing in larger containers, provided they receive regular watering and feeding, making them an attractive option for terraces, balconies and courtyards. Their narrow crowns combine well with other fruit trees and can also serve as vertical accents in ornamental plantings.

Narrow-growing pears require regular but gentle care to maintain their slender shape and support the formation of fruiting spurs. The key task is monitoring the development of longer lateral shoots and, when they appear, carrying out summer pruning by shortening these shoots to two or three buds to keep the crown narrow and light-permeable. Young trees need consistent watering in the first years after planting and during dry periods, as their narrow growth often corresponds with a smaller root system. Feeding should be moderate, ideally with compost or slow-release fertilisers, to support fruiting rather than excessive vegetative growth. It is always advisable to follow the description of each cultivar, especially regarding self-fertility or the need for a pollinator; in small gardens, however, nearby trees in neighbouring plots or limited self-fertility usually ensure at least a basic crop. These pears are hardy to approximately –34 °C.

Last update 18-04-2026

TOURAN™ PINK is a modern moss saxifrage cultivar from the TOURAN™ series, created by the Dutch breeder Martien Everett Gutter and marketed by Syngenta Flowers. It was chosen as a compact, evenly growing form with abundant spring flowering in a cheerful pink shade – neither garish nor washed‑out, simply a pleasant, clear pink. It forms low, firm cushions of small rosettes with finely lobed, deep to fresh green, evergreen leaves that give the plant a moss‑like appearance. To the touch they are surprisingly resilient and dense, so the plant never feels fragile, even in winter. Like the other cultivars in the series, it is valued for its uniformity, stable growth and dependable vigour. It is protected by European plant breeders’ rights under number 39489 (2015).

TOURAN™ PINK performs best where fine texture and spring colour are needed in a small space. It can fill narrow gaps between stones, create a soft transition between perennials and rock, or gently define the edge of a border without drawing too much attention. In cushion plantings it adds rhythm thanks to its regular growth and delicate foliage texture. It pairs well with plants that have more pronounced leaves or a different growth dynamic – for example sun‑loving heucheras, campanulas and other small perennials that, like saxifrages, dislike complete drying out. In semi‑shaded corners it brings freshness and a gentle brightness that reflects off the pink flowers in spring.

Arends saxifrage hybrids share growing requirements shaped by their mountain origins. They thrive in partial shade or in bright positions protected from harsh midday sun. They need cool, humus‑rich and slightly moist soil that must nevertheless be very well drained – prolonged waterlogging as well as complete drought are their greatest risks. A mixture of garden soil with fine gravel or coarse sand is ideal. During the growing season they need a little bit of watering so that the soil never dries out completely but also never remains wet. Feeding should be minimal, just a light application of compost or a weak fertiliser for rocky plants in spring. After flowering it is advisable to remove the spent flower stalks to maintain a compact shape. In older clumps it is common for the centre to open and brown – a natural growth cycle of the rosettes that accelerates with excess moisture or poor air circulation, so very free‑draining soil and watering at the base rather than over the leaves are essential. They are usually hardy to around −34 °C, ensuring reliable overwintering even in colder regions. Troughs and containers are unsuitable, as they heat up quickly in summer and may become waterlogged in winter, conditions saxifrages tolerate poorly.

Last update 14-04-2026

Traveller is a gracefully weeping form of eastern redbud, and unlike the smaller, iconic ‘Lavender Twist’, it feels airier, more tree‑like and more elegant in the line of its branches. The crown is softly arching, so the shoots do not collapse into a dense tangle but fall freely, allowing even an older plant to retain lightness and a gentle sense of movement. The deciduous leaves emerge in spring in warm shades of green, sometimes with copper orange hues, soon unfolding into a broadly heart‑shaped form and reaching a medium size for redbuds, usually 7 to 10 cm across. They have a firm, leathery texture and a conspicuously glossy surface, a characteristic feature of the Texas lineage Cercis canadensis var. texensis. Their colour remains stable through summer and the leaves are less prone to wilting in heat. Compared with ‘Lavender Twist’, they are slightly smaller, firmer and noticeably glossier, a quality that stands out even in partial shade.

The eastern redbud is valued for its spring flowering on bare wood, and ‘Traveller’ enhances this effect with its more open crown. The small, pea‑shaped flowers are bright pink with a hint of lilac and form a delicate veil around the branches, giving the tree a light and natural appearance. Tim Brotzman of Brotzman’s Nursery in Ohio noticed the distinct architecture and higher heat tolerance of this form, selected it as a separate cultivar and introduced it in 2003. He named it ‘Traveller’; no official explanation of the name has been published, but given the gently flowing, fluid character of the branches, it is reasonable to assume that it may allude to the impression of movement typical of this Texas lineage.

Like all weeping redbuds, ‘Traveller’ grows naturally with a pendulous habit, so without intervention it never forms a trunk on its own; after a certain length each shoot bends and continues downward unless it is trained. Trees offered for sale are therefore tied to a support at different heights, which in practice determines the near‑final height of the future tree, because above that point new shoots simply arch over. This creates a low, broad, elegantly cascading tree with such dense foliage that it can appear almost shrub‑like in the garden. Anyone wishing for a taller tree must tie the terminal shoot to a higher support as early as possible while it is still soft and flexible; once the training stops, the new terminal bends again and resumes its weeping growth.

Eastern redbud is not particularly demanding when it comes to soil, it will thrive in ordinary garden soil as long as it’s well-drained. However, it performs best in slightly to strongly acidic soil with consistent moisture, though not in boggy conditions. During hot spells in June, we’ve observed occasional scorching of the youngest leaves on plants exposed to full sun without adequate watering. Fortunately, it has proven very resilient – damaged leaves were quickly replaced by new, healthy ones. Young plants benefit from protection against harsh spring sun, which can be surprisingly intense, and from drying winter winds, especially in exposed locations. It dislikes transplanting, this is a tree that settles into its spot and doesn’t appreciate being moved. It can be shaped by pruning while young; later, we recommend trimming only thin branches during dormancy, ideally in late winter before bud break. Its cold hardiness is excellent, commonly rated to -29 °C (USDA zone 5), with some sources suggesting it may survive down to -34 °C (zone 4a), though this remains untested. Container growing is not recommended as it needs space for its roots and a stable microclimate that pots cannot provide.

Last update 12-04-2026

SNOW CONE is a compact, densely branched form of candytuft that feels like a smoother, more uniform version of the species. It forms low, firm cushions with dark green, leathery leaves and in spring becomes completely covered in snow‑white flowers that merge into a seamless layer. Compared with the species, it flowers more evenly, produces denser clusters of blooms and holds its shape better at the front of a border, giving a more polished and tidy appearance. It grows slowly and compact, which makes maintenance easier and ensures a consistently attractive habit. The cultivar originated as a commercial selection by Syngenta Flowers and is protected in Europe under number 23441 from 2008.

The use of this candytuft rests mainly on its cushion‑forming, almost ground‑covering habit. It can brighten the gaps between stones, spill over a dry wall and thrive in rock gardens. It looks best at the edge of a border – even a raised one where its trailing edges gently fall over the rim. It pairs beautifully with plants that offer contrasting foliage texture, different colours or a different flowering rhythm, such as thyme, lavender, stonecrops or alyssum. All these share similar requirements for sun and dry, well‑drained soil, forming a stable and low‑maintenance planting.

Its requirements and care are straightforward. It needs full sun; otherwise it flowers less and the cushion may loosen. The soil must be well drained, ideally gravelly or sandy, because persistent moisture is the most common cause of failure. Watering is necessary only at planting and for a few weeks afterwards to help it establish, and during prolonged droughts. Feeding is unnecessary; in fact, overly rich soil leads to lusher but less compact growth. Light trimming immediately after flowering helps maintain shape and encourages density. It can be grown in containers if the pot is shallow, wide and very well drained. Wind does not trouble it, but long periods of winter wet do. Candytufts are extremely hardy, tolerating down to −34 °C as long as the soil is not waterlogged.

Last update 10-04-2026

Patriot hosta is one of the proven classics, valued for its striking leaf contrast and long‑term reliability in the garden. It is a very boldly coloured and well‑shaped cultivar, forming a low, broadly spreading clump with a regular habit, reaching about 30 cm in leaf height and around 75 cm in width. The leaves are approximately 18 cm long and 13 cm wide, broadly ovate to cordate in shape, with a firm, thick texture. The leaf centre is dark green, while the margin is distinctly white, about 2.5 cm wide and slightly turned upwards, enhancing the crisp outline of the foliage. Flower scapes rise to around 75 cm and carry medium violet, subtly striped, tubular flowers, produced in abundance from mid‑June to mid‑July. The cultivar originated in Virginia as a sport of Hosta ‘Francee’ and was awarded the title Hosta of the Year in 1997, confirming its outstanding garden value and long‑term stability.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘Patriot’ is fully hardy to min. -40 °C (USDA zone 3) and performs best in partial shade to light shade; it tolerates some morning sun, while strong midday and afternoon sun may reduce the contrast of the variegation, and thanks to its thick leaf texture it shows moderate resistance to slugs, which can cause damage only in strong occurrence. 

Last update 06-04-2026

Sunny Halcyon hosta is like a little sun in a shady garden. The colour of its leaves is truly exceptional among hostas. It forms a low, softly mounded clump with a cushion‑like habit, reaching about 30 cm in height and around 50 cm in width, with a moderate growth rate. The leaves are approximately 20 cm long and 14 cm wide, ovate with a cordate base and nine pairs of veins; their surface is relatively flat and has a thick, firm texture. The basic leaf colour is bright yellow to yellow‑green, overlaid with a greenish flush that is more pronounced towards the margins, creating the light, “sunny” impression reflected in the first part of the cultivar’s name. The second part – halcyon – refers to the kingfisher and, in a broader sense, to a calm, windless period when, according to ancient belief, the sea grows still and the world slows for a moment. It should not be confused with the famous blue‑leaved cultivar ‘Halcyon’, bred by Eric Smith. ‘Sunny Halcyon’ arose as a sport of the cultivar ‘Catherine’ and was registered in 2021.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘Sunny Halcyon’ is fully hardy to about -40 °C (USDA zone 3), thriving best in partial shade to light shade; it tolerates some morning sun, while strong midday and afternoon sun may scorch the foliage, and thanks to its thick leaf texture it shows moderate resistance to slugs, though damage may still occur under heavy pressure.

Last update 06-04-2026

The main appeal of Bedazzled hosta lies in its contrast, which works even from a distance, despite the fact that it is not a large-leaved cultivar. It forms a low, compact and very dense clump. The leaves are approximately 15 cm long and 10 cm wide, with a cordate base and eight to ten pairs of veins; the centre of the leaf is medium blue-green to dark green, while the flat margin, about 2.5 cm wide, is light chartreuse to golden yellow, creating a strong yet balanced contrast. The upper surface of the leaf is matt, while the underside carries a fine glaucous bloom that enhances the cooler tone of the tissue and reflects the influence of the blue-leaved parent. The flowers are tubular, medium lavender in colour, about 4 cm long, and appear in summer on unobtrusive scapes reaching around 50 cm in height, remaining clearly subordinate to the foliage. The cultivar was registered by Don Dean in 1999 and arose from a cross between ‘Little Wonder’ as the pod parent and ‘Love Pat’ as the pollen parent, a combination reflected in the firm leaf texture, pronounced margin and low, spreading habit. 

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘Sleeping Beauty’ is fully hardy to about -40 °C (USDA zone 3), performing best in partial shade to light shade; it tolerates brief morning sun, while strong midday and afternoon sun may weaken the glaucous bloom and damage the pale leaf margin, and thanks to its firmer leaf texture it shows moderate resistance to slugs, which may still cause damage under heavy pressure.

Last update 06-04-2026

Risky Business is a true delicacy among hostas, offering an unusual colour combination that appears almost exotic. It is a fast‑growing cultivar forming a broad, softly mounded clump with an ascending habit and leaves that are clearly spaced from one another, giving the plant a firm yet refined appearance. With its vigorous growth, it reaches approximately 40 cm in height and up to around 90 cm in width. The leaves are about 18 cm long and 14 cm wide, broadly ovate with a flat base and eight pairs of veins; their surface is largely flat, with a firm yet rather matte texture. A wide, pure white stripe runs through the centre of each leaf like a brushstroke, surrounded by rich green with a subtle bluish cast. The somewhat pronounced leaf tip, often gently twisting towards the margins, adds a sense of movement and liveliness to the clump. The upper surface of the leaves is matte, while the underside carries a delicate glaucous bloom. White flower scapes rise to around 70 cm and bear medium lavender, tubular flowers, appearing from mid‑July to mid‑August. The cultivar arose as a sport of Hosta ‘Striptease’ and was bred by Hans Hansen and Tony Avent; it originates from the USA and is protected by European plant breeders’ rights under PBR 24529.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘Risky Business’ is fully hardy to approximately −40 °C and performs best in partial shade to light shade, though it tolerates a considerable amount of sun provided it can rest for part of the day in dappled shade. Thanks to its firm leaf texture, it belongs to the cultivars that show better resistance to slugs, although some damage may still occur where pressure is high.

Last update 06-04-2026

Frances Williams is among the most striking large‑leaved hostas and is still regarded as one of the icons of blue‑green cultivars with a light margin. It forms a substantial, broadly spreading clump, reaching approximately 45 cm in height and up to around 90 cm in width. The leaves are enormous, about 30 cm long and 25 cm wide, broadly ovate to almost rounded, with twelve pairs of pronounced veins and a thick, sculptural texture. The leaf centre is blue‑green, while the margin is wide and irregular, ranging from chartreuse to yellow; this contrast shifts subtly over the course of the season, giving the plant a lively, changing character. Flower scapes rise above the foliage to around 75 cm and carry white, tubular flowers from mid‑June through the summer. The cultivar originated in Massachusetts as a sport of Hosta ‘Elegans’; it was developed by Frances and Conrad Williams and named in honour of Frances Williams, a prominent American grower and advocate of hostas. It has been registered since 1986.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘Frances Williams’ is fully hardy to about -40 °C (USDA zone 3) and performs best in partial shade to light shade, where its blue‑green foliage retains the best colour; exposure to strong sun may cause leaf scorch and fading of the margins, and despite its thick leaves it can be attractive to slugs, particularly in damp conditions.

Last update 06-04-2026

First Frost hosta claims as much attention in a shady garden as other comparably bold, foliage‑driven perennials. From the moment it emerges, this is not a delicate, elegant plantain lily intended merely as a supporting plant, but a cultivar of distinctly majestic presence, whose main strengths are contrast and colour. The leaves unfurl with a sharp, cool yellow margin, while the centre remains muted blue‑green, conveying a sense of firmness and calm. This contrast is not a fleeting spring effect but reflects the cultivar’s genetic background, rooted in a blue‑leaved lineage with a pronounced waxy coating. The deciduous leaves reach 20–25 cm in length; they are thick, smooth, elongated‑ovate and gently arched, giving the clump an orderly and dignified appearance. Over the course of the season, the variegation evolves: the yellow margin gradually softens to creamy tones, while the centre, given sufficient moisture and protection from midday sun, retains its cooler hue longer than most variegated hostas. In midsummer, light lavender flowers appear on sturdy scapes rising to 60–70 cm. ‘First Frost’ arose as a sport of the cultivar ‘Halcyon’ and was introduced in 2000 by the American perennial guru Hans Hansen (*1959) of Walters Gardens. The name of this variety refers to the fact that its leaves often retain their firmness and striking colouration well into the first autumn frosts.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘First Frost’ is hardy to approximately −40 °C (USDA zone 3). It tolerates brighter positions with morning or filtered light, but in full midday sun the waxy coating is quickly lost, and thanks to its thick leaves it ranks among the hostas least favoured by slugs.

Last update 05-04-2026

The main appeal of Bedazzled hosta lies in its contrast, which works even from a distance, despite the fact that it is not a large-leaved cultivar. It forms a low, compact and very dense clump. The leaves are approximately 15 cm long and 10 cm wide, with a cordate base and eight to ten pairs of veins; the centre of the leaf is medium blue-green to dark green, while the flat margin, about 2.5 cm wide, is light chartreuse to golden yellow, creating a strong yet balanced contrast. The upper surface of the leaf is matt, while the underside carries a fine glaucous bloom that enhances the cooler tone of the tissue and reflects the influence of the blue-leaved parent. The flowers are tubular, medium lavender in colour, about 4 cm long, and appear in summer on unobtrusive scapes reaching around 50 cm in height, remaining clearly subordinate to the foliage. The cultivar was registered by Don Dean in 1999 and arose from a cross between ‘Little Wonder’ as the pod parent and ‘Love Pat’ as the pollen parent, a combination reflected in the firm leaf texture, pronounced margin and low, spreading habit. 

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. Hosta ‘Bedazzled’ is fully hardy to approximately −40 °C, performing best in partial shade to light shade; it tolerates brief morning sun, while strong midday and afternoon sun may damage the pale leaf margin, and thanks to its firmer leaf texture it shows moderate resistance to slugs.

Last update 06-04-2026

First Blush is a distinctive hosta cultivar that offers something rare among the genus: a red tint. It is subtle rather than bold – hence its name – yet at the moment of leaf emergence it is striking and lends a shaded garden an entirely different vibe. The reddish to pink colouring appears mainly in spring and is concentrated in the young leaves, where it creates a delicate, changeable effect influenced by weather conditions and light levels. At first, it spreads across the entire leaf surface, later retreating towards the margins, as if raspberry syrup had been poured over the leaves and were slowly running off, altering their appearance day by day. The leaves are narrowly heart-shaped, 20-22 cm long, smooth, with softer tissue and gently undulating edges, giving the clump a light, open habit rather than a compact one. In summer they are largely green, marked only by red veins, and glossy. From July onwards, pale lavender flowers appear on slender scapes reaching 60–70 cm in height; they do not overpower the foliage effect, as they rise well above the leaf canopy.

The cultivar was bred by the American hosta breeder Bob Solberg, who introduced it in 2016; plant patent PP28920 was granted in 2018. ‘First Blush’ arose from a cross involving the older cultivar ‘Beet Salad’, noted for its deep red leaf petioles. In contrast to another red-tinted cultivar ‘Purple Haze’, where a purplish tint appears only in irregular streaks across the leaf surface, ‘First Blush’ produces young leaves entirely suffused with a reddish tone. Bob Solberg is a prominent figure in modern hosta breeding and works at his own nursery Green Hill Farm (Green Hill Hostas) in North Carolina, where he has long focused on the targeted breeding of hostas with emphasis on leaf colour, texture and unusual traits that occur only rarely within the genus. His most successful cultivars include ‘Guacamole’, named Hosta of the Year in 2002, as well as ‘Orange Marmalade’, ‘Corkscrew’, ‘Ginsu Knife’ and ‘First Blush’, which fits squarely within his long-standing interest in unconventional foliar colour effects.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. ‘First Blush’ is fully hardy to approximately −40 °C (USDA Zone 3), thrives in partial shade to shade, and tolerates sunny positions only with protection from harsh midday sun and with increased watering. Owing to its softer foliage, it is among the cultivars more susceptible to slug damage.

Last update 05-04-2026

Blue Mammoth is a monumental, blue‑leaved hosta cultivar valued for its exceptionally large, strongly textured foliage and calm, sculptural habit. It forms a massive, broadly domed clump of heavy, deeply quilted, broadly ovate leaves whose surface is strikingly blue‑green to steel blue in spring, thanks to a thick waxy coating. Over the course of summer this gradually softens to a more subdued blue‑green, without the leaves losing their plasticity or robust character. The leaf margins are gently undulating, the venation pronounced, and the overall effect is majestic yet serene. The clump reaches approximately 70–90 cm in height and 120–150 cm in width, with leaves commonly 35–40 cm long. In June and July, tall, upright scapes rise above the foliage, bearing loose clusters of funnel‑shaped flowers in whitish to pale lavender tones, which do not compete with the foliage but subtly complement it.

Hosta ‘Blue Mammoth’ belongs to the group of large‑leaved blue hostas of the sieboldiana type, derived from the cultivar ‘Elegans’. The cultivar dates back to the 1980s and forms part of the genetic lineage of large blue hostas collected and hybridised by Paul Aden (1923–2001), one of the most influential American hosta breeders of the 20th century. It was entered into the official hosta register only in 2010 and is now regarded as one of the finest large blue hostas available.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted environment in cities. Hardy to about -40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 03-04-2026

Queen Josephine is a large‑leaved hosta cultivar whose foliage looks as if it were cut from thick parchment – firm, weighty and strongly sculpted.

The base colour is a deep green, at the beginning of the season often carrying a faint bluish‑grey bloom reminiscent of blueberry skins, which gradually fades as summer approaches and the leaves become glossy. The margin is attractively light buttery yellow to creamy, and occasionally some leaves may appear entirely creamy. The contrast is not loud but rather refined, and that is precisely where its strength lies. The clump grows slowly yet very steadily, with leaves arranged in a regular, gently domed rosette that in summer provides a luxurious backdrop for the flowers. It blooms from July to August, producing tubular to bell‑shaped flowers in pale lavender to light violet, borne on upright stems rising roughly 20–60 cm above the foliage. The more shade it receives, the fewer flowers it produces, but with sufficient light (half a day of sun or bright, filtered light throughout the day) and adequate moisture, flowering is abundant and conspicuous. 

The cultivar ‘Queen Josephine’ is more tolerant of sun than variegated hostas, and thanks to its firmer leaves it is less attractive to slugs. It arose as a spontaneous mutation of the cultivar ‘Josephine’ and was registered by the breeder Bob Kuk (Ohio) in 1991. It bears the name of Empress Joséphine, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, which is no coincidence – she too was a symbol of elegance and cultivated taste.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted city environment. Hardy to about -40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 03-04-2026

Cherry Berry is a smaller yet striking cultivar of hosta that captivates not only with its vivid colouring but also with the shape of its leaves. The leaves are narrowly lance‑shaped, with a fresh green brim, a clean white centre that remains stable throughout the season and does not fade even in summer, and subtle transitional marbling in light green tones. The clump is compact and rather upright, with a light, almost graphic appearance, so it never feels heavy even in smaller plantings. The real surprise, however, comes from the flowers: from July to August, slender scapes rise bearing tubular flowers of a vivid pink colour on deep purplish‑burgundy stems – a hue that is exceptional among hostas and gives this cultivar both its name and its character. The cultivar arose as a sport of ‘First Frost’ and was registered by Hans Hansen (Walters Gardens, USA) in 2005, retaining its parent’s vigour while adding a far more pronounced floral effect that clearly sets it apart from most hostas.

Hostas bring both drama and calm to the garden at once: dramatically large, often richly coloured leaves, yet through their stillness and slow growth into substantial clumps they also introduce a sense of quiet and the need for patience. Their architectural structure is hard to find among other perennials and naturally invites bold contrasts. Do not hesitate to create dense combinations of differing textures – for example the grass‑like, elongated leaves of liriope, the palmately divided forms of hardy geraniums, the showy fans of ferns, or, conversely, small‑leaved and delicate perennials that act as the smallest companions within this almost rainforest‑like setting. Hostas can be grown as isolated clumps, or young plants can be moved a little further each year to form ground cover or attractive bands along paths or used as an understorey edging beneath taller perennials or shrubs.

Hostas need constantly moist, fertile soil that never dries out – keep it always mulched. They respond well to fertilizing and produce stronger foliage and denser tufts. Ideal location is partial shade, or full sun with some shade during the day. Full shade is fine but plants may not flower as freely or at all. Drought can result in weakened plants that will be prone to diseases, and combination of drought and full sun will damage most variegated cultivars. Beware of slugs and snails who come to feast on their leaves without an invitation. Being deciduous, remove all wilted foliage from previous year in early spring and make sure not too damage emerging bourgeons. They cope well with polluted environment in cities. Hardy to about -34 °C (USDA zone 4).

Last update 03-04-2026

White Star is an elegant, white-flowering cultivar of the Carpathian bellflower, characterised by distinctly open, star-shaped flowers and a naturally compact habit. In contrast to deeply bell-shaped types, its flowers appear lighter and more delicate, with clearly separated lobes that create a clean impression with gently defined points. The plant forms a low, dense cushion of small leaves, above which the flowers appear in great abundance and, at peak bloom, almost cover the foliage. Flowering is prolonged, sometimes lasting up to eight weeks. The overall appearance is less formal than that of modern breeding series, yet highly harmonious and natural, closely reflecting the character of the species. The leaves are small, bright green, softly glossy, with a typically broadly heart-shaped base that is characteristic of Carpathian bellflowers.

Low-growing Carpathian bellflowers are particularly well suited to the edges of borders, to crevices between stones where a little moisture is retained without persistent wetness or complete dryness, or to smaller containers, where the delicate pattern of the flowers and fine foliage can be fully appreciated. Thanks to its compact growth, ‘White Star’ combines well with other rock garden plants and low perennials, without appearing intrusive or overwhelming its neighbours. The pure white colour of the flowers is always a welcome companion for enhancing contrast among more colourful perennials, as well as in single-colour schemes where clarity of colour and restrained elegance are desired. They look fantastic in mass plantings where they can create flowering carpets. After the main flowering period, it is advisable to cut the plant back and feed it with organic fertiliser, which will encourage the formation of new shoots and often a lighter repeat flowering.

Carpathian bellflowers prefer evenly moist but well-drained soil in full sun, though they also tolerate light shade, particularly in warmer regions. For abundant and repeat flowering they require an adequate supply of nutrients, yet excessive fertilisation is detrimental, promoting leafy growth at the expense of flowers. They can also be grown in ornamental outdoor containers with good drainage (without saucers) and regular, but not excessive, watering. They favour slightly alkaline to neutral soils. These are perennials of moderate longevity which, under good conditions, can remain in one place for many years, although the centre of the clump may thin over time; this is a natural process rather than a sign of failure. They tolerate transplanting reasonably well if carried out outside the main flowering period and with care for the fine root system. When stems are cut, a milky sap appears, which is neither toxic nor strongly allergenic and poses no risk during normal garden work. Ground-covering hybrid bellflowers are generally healthy and resilient perennials, not prone to serious diseases or pests provided they are not grown in waterlogged soil or overly dense plantings. They are hardy to about −40 °C (USDA zone 3).

Last update 29-03-2026

STARINA SPRING BELL is a charming, blue to blue-violet flowering cultivar of a low-growing bellflower, bred by the Dutch breeder Pim Kaagman in the town of Andijk. It is a freely and long-flowering perennial with a compact cushion of foliage, above which the flowers rise clearly and remain well visible throughout the flowering period. The plant appears neat yet natural, as if it were instinctively maintaining its own proportions. The flowers are bell-shaped, medium-sized, and carried on short, sturdy stems, contributing to an overall balanced appearance. The leaves are small, dark green, gently glossy and often heart-shaped at the base, a feature typical of low Balkan bellflowers. Compared with botanical species, growth is markedly more uniform and flowering lasts longer, often with a tendency to repeat after cutting back. It is part of a small breeding series of early-flowering bellflowers intended for containers as well as the garden, marketed under the name STARINA. It was bred in 1995 and is protected by the US plant patent PP18236, granted in 2007.

STARINA SPRING BELL can create a low yet striking feature along the edges of borders, in stone walls or in larger bowls, where it spreads into a continuous blue carpet. Thanks to its compact growth, it combines well with plants of fine texture, such as small ornamental grasses or low perennials, without overgrowing or suppressing them. Care should be taken, however, to ensure it is not shaded or crowded out by larger, fast-spreading perennials, as ground-covering bellflowers are poor competitors and will begin to thin out. For added colour contrast, it can be combined with plants such as aurinia, aubrieta or saxifraga, where differences in form and colour are particularly effective. In containers it appears cultivated and stable, which will be appreciated by anyone who does not wish to deal with collapsed or drawn plants every spring. If the clump is cut back by at least half after flowering and given regular but moderate feeding, it will often regrow and flower again, reliably and sometimes up to three times during the season.

Hybrid ground-covering bellflowers prefer evenly moist but well-drained soil in full sun, although they also tolerate light shade, especially in warmer climates. For abundant and repeated flowering, they require sufficient nutrients, yet excessive fertilisation is counterproductive and leads to lush foliage at the expense of flowers. They can also be grown in outdoor ornamental containers with good drainage but without a saucer, and with regular, but not excessive, watering. They favour slightly alkaline to neutral soils. These are perennials of moderate longevity which, under good conditions, will persist in one place for many years, although the centre of the clump may gradually thin over time, a natural process rather than a sign of failure. They tolerate transplanting reasonably well if carried out outside the main flowering period and with care for their fine root system. When stems are cut, a milky sap appears, which is neither toxic nor strongly allergenic and poses no risk during normal garden work. Hybrid ground-covering bellflowers are generally healthy and resilient plants, not particularly prone to diseases or pests, provided they are not grown in waterlogged soil or overly dense plantings. The cultivar STARINA SPRING BELL is hardy to at least −34 °C (USDA zone 4).

Last update 29-03-2026

Blue camas is a delight for lovers of blue colour. This spring‑flowering bulb ranks among the taller perennials, offering a striking structure and intense colour at a time when most herbaceous plants are only beginning to gain substance. Caerulea is a result of long-term selection of forms with deeper, vivid blue flowers. They are star‑shaped and arranged in loose, erect racemes. The leaves are narrow and strap‑shaped, emerging from a basal rosette that appears fresh and architectural in spring before gradually dying back after flowering. Compared with other species of the genus, blue camas has a more delicate build and smaller flowers, lending it a natural, meadow‑like character. Despite its height and generous inflorescences, it never appears overly exotic. The stems are sturdy and require no support.

In the garden, blue camas excels wherever a transition is needed between spring bulbs and the onset of summer perennials. As it favours sun and moisture, it is best combined with late‑emerging perennials whose expansive foliage can fill the gaps left by the retreating leaves of camas without competing for root space. Suitable companions include ligularia, actaea, rodgersia, swamp mallow or some of the few hostas that tolerate full sun. Taller deciduous ferns adapted to sunny sites can also work well, such as ostrich fern, which emerges around the same time as camas but only fully unfurls its tall fronds once camas begins to fade. As it spreads readily, it can become an excellent successor in larger plantings. Blue camas also performs beautifully in moist lawns mown only after the foliage has died back, or in the light shade beneath deciduous trees, where it enjoys ample spring light. It is particularly effective in generous drifts along ponds or in rain gardens. For a predominantly spring‑focused border with dramatic flowering on tall stems, combine it with large‑flowered ornamental alliums and foxtail lilies for a true firework of colour.

Blue camas is surprisingly undemanding provided it has sufficient moisture in spring. It tolerates full sun as well as light shade. The soil should be humus‑rich and capable of retaining water, though prolonged summer waterlogging should be avoided. It copes very well with heavy, clay soils. Dry, sandy substrates are unsuitable, as is container cultivation without regular watering. After flowering, the foliage should be allowed to die back naturally so the bulbs can replenish their reserves. Fertilising is usually unnecessary and may even be counterproductive in fertile soils. The plant itself is not toxic. Its winter hardiness is excellent, withstanding temperatures down to approximately −34 °C (USDA zone 4) without difficulty. 

Last update 29-03-2026

Matterhorn is a magnificent, large-flowered cultivar of Japanese camellia, a classic spring-flowering variety that in temperate Central European conditions usually blooms from late March into early May. Its flowers are pure white, without any creamy or pink undertones, measuring approximately 8 to 10 cm across, fully double and composed of more than thirty petals arranged with striking regularity to form a deep, compact and refined rose-like blooms. The snow-white colour of the flowers clearly inspired the name ‘Matterhorn’, evoking the iconic Alpine peak as a symbol of cold, purity and monumental elegance. The blooms stand out beautifully against the dark green, leathery and highly glossy leaves typical of Japanese camellia. Growth is upright and well balanced, with a naturally compact, well-branched shrub forming a cultivated habit that retains its regular shape even without pruning. The cultivar dates from 1981 and originates in the United States, where it was raised as a seedling of the cultivar ‘Kingyo-tsubaki’, often identified in the literature as synonymous with ‘Mermaid’, by the breeder David Feathers of Lafayette, California.

Camellias need similar planting like rhododendrons - once you plant them well you need not care for them. They require fresh, ericaceous (acid), peat-based, humus-rich soil that will never dry out but will not be water-retaining like clay. Even moisture and good drainage are key demands for good root growth. We strongly suggest using mycorrhizal fungi when planting. Never plant it too deep and if your soil is clay elevate the root ball accordingly. Fertilizing is recommended after flowering, once a month until late summer. 

Crucial is finding a good location and finding one for good - camellias detest transplanting. In the wild they grow under canopies of tall trees or at woodland margins. They dislike direct sunlight and both excess heat in summer and drying winds in colder months. Find a place at the back of the house away from winter and spring sunlight, sheltered from the north-west, or behind a tall hedge with some trees nearby to cast at least dappled shade during summer. Ever seen a camellia in full sun at the seaside? Remember that the air is so humid there that plants do not suffer from drying rays as they keep on drinking all day long. Before it establishes which might take 2-3 years provide enough moisture also in winter in the ground is not frozen but don't overwater! Mulch it well with bark mulch 5-10 cm high. The hardiness of the cultivar ‘Dr. King’ is approximately −17 °C (USDA zone 7), and a site protected from winter sun and cold winds is recommended, as these can damage the flower buds at the turn of winter and early spring.

Last update 26-03-2026

Dr. King is a Japanese camellia cultivar, a spring-flowering one, first introduced in 1944 by the Australian nursery Camellia Grove Nursery. It is a large-flowered cultivar with semi-double, highly decorative blooms measuring approximately 8 to 10 cm in diameter. The flowers display a distinctive shade of metallic red which, due to the uneven saturation of the petals, does not appear signal red but rather soft and subtly pastel in tone. The blooms are firm and dignified, without excessive ostentation, and stand out clearly against the lush, dark green, leathery, glossy and evergreen foliage characteristic of Japanese camellia. Growth is moderately vigorous, with a naturally upright to broadly bushy habit that becomes denser with age. At maturity, the plant forms a compact shrub reaching approximately 3 to 4 metres in height and a similar spread, with annual growth of around 30 cm. Full size is attained only after many years, reflecting the slow and steady development typical of long-lived camellias.

Camellias need similar planting like rhododendrons - once you plant them well you need not care for them. They require fresh, ericaceous (acid), peat-based, humus-rich soil that will never dry out but will not be water-retaining like clay. Even moisture and good drainage are key demands for good root growth. We strongly suggest using mycorrhizal fungi when planting. Never plant it too deep and if your soil is clay elevate the root ball accordingly. Fertilizing is recommended after flowering, once a month until late summer. 

Crucial is finding a good location and finding one for good - camellias detest transplanting. In the wild they grow under canopies of tall trees or at woodland margins. They dislike direct sunlight and both excess heat in summer and drying winds in colder months. Find a place at the back of the house away from winter and spring sunlight, sheltered from the north-west, or behind a tall hedge with some trees nearby to cast at least dappled shade during summer. Ever seen a camellia in full sun at the seaside? Remember that the air is so humid there that plants do not suffer from drying rays as they keep on drinking all day long. Before it establishes which might take 2-3 years provide enough moisture also in winter in the ground is not frozen but don't overwater! Mulch it well with bark mulch 5-10 cm high. The hardiness of the cultivar ‘Dr. King’ is approximately −18 °C (USDA zone 7), and a site protected from winter sun and cold winds is recommended, as these can damage the flower buds at the turn of winter and early spring.

Last update 22-03-2026

The true charm of spring pheasant’s eye lies in contrast. From a low, unobtrusive clump of finely divided leaves, faintly reminiscent of dill or even pasque flower, a flower emerges in spring that feels unexpectedly self-assured. Bright yellow, glossy, 5-6 cm across, thrown wide open to the sun, as if it knew how lovingly and admiringly we would look at it. And it is right. For a moment, it has all our attention. That was certainly my experience when I used to see it in my grandmother’s garden, where it would suddenly appear one day as if from nowhere. The plant remains compact, never spreading aggressively or trying to outgrow its surroundings, yet it confidently claims the visual space that belongs to it. The leaves are delicate, almost thread-like but firm, and after flowering they form a calm green backdrop that neither distracts nor demands attention.

Pheasant’s eye is reliable but stubborn – it will not do what we force it to do. No dividing, no transplanting, no breeding. Simply plant it and let it play its part. Everything it has to offer will reveal itself in its own time. It teaches patience and gratitude. Compared with other species of the genus, Adonis vernalis is more robust and long-lived, yet at the same time gentler in expression. It is not a plant that pushes itself forward, but one that gradually wins you over, provided you give it peace and space.

Spring pheasant’s eye is well suited to dry perennial borders, slopes, steppe-style plantings and naturalistic schemes, where its early flowering and compact habit can truly stand out. It works well in combination with low-growing and rock-garden perennials; thanks to its fine yet upright character, it complements carpet-forming little flowers beautifully and shines in carefully colour-planned beds composed entirely of spring-flowering plants that bloom together, offering a striking seasonal awakening. Pheasant’s eye is not a plant for mass planting. It is a sparkling jewel on the spring coat of nature, and as such, even a single plant is enough.

Spring pheasant’s eye requires full sun and a poor, well-drained soil with a high mineral content. It does not tolerate waterlogging, heavy soils or frequent disturbance of the roots, so the planting position should be chosen as a permanent one. Feeding is unnecessary and common garden fertilisers are more likely to cause harm, especially those high in nitrogen, which promote leafy growth at the expense of flowering and longevity. Compost and organic fertilisers are unsuitable. Once established, the plant is highly drought tolerant, requires no pruning, and is not recommended for container cultivation. It is fully hardy, tolerating temperatures down to around −34 °C (USDA zone 4).

Last update: 19-03-2026