Photinia x fraseri 'Mandarino' CARRÉ ROUGE Fraser's photinia

From the very moment CARRÉ ROUGE photinia hit the market, it became an overnight sensation. It originates from the hugely successful ‘Red Robin’, but offers a far more compact and denser habit, with smaller leaves that look elegant and completely smother the plant’s coat, turning the photinia into a Red Riding Hood. The French cultivar name CARRÉ ROUGE translates as “Red squared” and refers to the colour of the young foliage, which emerges in a much deeper red with a burgundy undertone. The leaves are evergreen and leathery, elliptic, but smaller and narrower than those of ‘Red Robin’, they are 5–7 × 3–4 cm. The shrub has a distinctly tidy, upright habit, forming a broadly ovoid outline with dense branching in maturity. Growth is slower, yet you can expect it to reach around two to three metres in maturity, and possibly a little more in warmer climates.

Fresh flushes of red young leaves appear at least twice a year. The dense habit develops fully only after several seasons, as young plants naturally tend to shoot upwards first and only later begin to bush out. Thanks to this, it is excellent for hedging, planted 70–100 cm apart so the shrubs do not crowd each other or compete for nutrients over time. It also works beautifully as a colour‑changing evergreen specimen. I often recommend photinias in combination with other evergreen shrubs of contrasting textures and colours to create attractive garden corners and green partitions separating different parts of the garden, not just entire plots as hedges. We have not yet observed flowering.

As for its origin, CARRÉ ROUGE has a story that would deserve its own detective novel. The original mutation appeared in Pistoia, Tuscany – the heart of a vast region of nurseries producing woody plants for all of Europe. It arose as a mutation within a stock block of ‘Red Robin’ and received the working name Mandarino (perhaps red mandarins were ripening at the time…). The exact year is not documented, but it was towards the end of the 20th century. From there it travelled to France, where the nursery Pépinières La Forêt reselected it, stabilised it and introduced it to the market under the name CARRÉ ROUGE. And just to keep things interesting, another compact form of Red Robin was being sold in Europe at the same time – Robusta Compacta, a French selection from the Minier nursery dating back to 1991. Judging by the name, it may well relate to the Australian cultivar ‘Robusta’ as its smaller counterpart, and at first glance the two really do look very similar. CARRÉ ROUGE was never patented, so the plants spread freely under varying names which led to a small international muddle. Growers had probably had enough of the confusion, so Dutch nurseryman Nico Bouter decided to register at least the variety name CARRÉ ROUGE to bring some order to the chaos. He succeeded in 2012. 

When small red spots appear on the leaves, they are caused either by natural pigmentation triggered by temporary physiological stress or by a common fungal disease (Entomosporium). In most cases, it is merely an aesthetic issue. Only in the event of heavy leaf-drop do we recommend treating them with appropriate fungicide and disposing of fallen leaves from the garden (do not compost them!). The plant will soon replace the shed foliage.

Fraser’s photinia is surprisingly tolerant of various environments. It thrives best in moist but not waterlogged soil and in a fertile position, yet it will grow even in ordinary or poorer soil – it will simply be a little less dense. Acidic soil enhances leaf colour, but it is not essential. It colours best and grows most densely in full sun, but it also tolerates light partial shade. In deep shade, however, it loses the colour of its young leaves, produces elongated shoots, and appears thin. Due to the high evaporation rate we recommend mulching generously after planting and giving young plants extra water during summer. Once established (usually after 1–2 years), it becomes remarkably drought-tolerant, which is why you encounter it so often in Mediterranean gardens, even in places scorched by heat. Just one thing – Mediterranean winters bring plenty of rain, a luxury continental Europe does not always enjoy. Therefore, during dry winters, if the ground is not frozen, water the plant thoroughly once a month so the leaves can better withstand severe frosts. Proven hardiness reaches –24 °C (USDA zone 6) without damage and can go a few degrees lower. After very strong frosts, the tips of the leaves may become dehydrated or scorched, but the plant regenerates reliably after a spring prune. It tolerates pruning extremely well – you can shape it almost anytime, and it even handles hard rejuvenation cuts. A spring prune in April encourages branching, while a summer prune helps refine the shape and often triggers an autumn flush of new red shoots. Suitable for cultivation in large outdoor planters (min. 80x80x80 cm) with regular watering.

Last update 21-07-2016; 30-12-2025