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SYMBIVIT® BYLINKY is a granular product based on the excellent properties of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi, which form a natural symbiosis with the roots of most aromatic and medicinal herbs. It is easy to use and allows your herbs to draw the best support for healthy growth, rich aroma, and overall vitality. The mycorrhizal fungi contained in Symbivit® Bylinky connect to plant roots, absorb nutrients from the soil, and support the plant throughout its entire life. Thanks to this symbiosis, plants are better able to withstand stressful conditions such as drought, transplanting, or pathogen pressure.

The effect of SYMBIVIT BYLINKY includes:

• improved nutrition, growth, and overall health of herbs
• a higher content of aromatic compounds
• reduced need for watering and fertilization
• increased resistance to stress such as drought or transplanting
• suitability for herbs grown on slopes due to its positive effect on soil stabilization.

The product is suitable for:

• aromatic and medicinal herbs such as mint, lemon balm, sage, thyme, basil, rosemary, lavender, calendula, chamomile, and others
• most flowers and vegetables that form arbuscular mycorrhiza
• herbs grown in containers, window boxes, and garden beds.

This product is NOT suitable for

• plants from the Brassicaceae family such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, radish, cress, horseradish, and others
• plants from the Chenopodiaceae family such as beetroot and spinach
• plants from the Amaranthaceae family
• other plant families specifically described in the list of recommended use

For ericaceous plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas, and blueberries, use the product RHODOVIT®. For coniferous trees such as pine, spruce, fir, and some deciduous trees such as beech, oak, and birch, use the product ECTOVIT®.

Shiloh Splash birch looks like almost anything but a birch. It bears noticeably smaller leaves, richly variegated with creamy white along the margins. It was discovered in 1999 by brothers John and Danny Allen at their Shiloh Nursery in North Carolina, USA, as a spontaneous mutation of the species, river birch. The strikingly coloured leaves dance in the wind, aided by fine branching and an airy habit. They are deciduous, broadly ovate and distinctly toothed along the edges, yet soft to the touch. They reach lengths of 3–11 cm and widths of 2–9 cm, although the maximum dimensions are achieved only after many years and solely under ideal conditions in very fertile and moist soils. They typically remain smaller and give a more delicate impression. The bark remains attractive even in winter thanks to its papery exfoliation in warm tones, but patience is required – it may take up to ten years for the trunks to thicken sufficiently to reveal their full splendour.

It grows at a moderate rate, approximately 30–50 cm per year and can be cultivated either as a low tree naturally branched from the ground, or with the lower branches gradually removed to form a canopy. It reaches roughly 3–4.5 m in height with a spread of about 2.5–3 m. In the landscape, it performs best in moist locations – it is not ideal as a lawn tree without irrigation where it may suffer from drought. As it needs evenly moist (but not waterlogged) soil, it pairs well with similarly inclined woody plants such as rhododendrons, clethras, willows, certain ferns and moisture‑loving perennials. Its canopy does not cast deep shade, but when planted in the right position it can provide midday protection from the scorching sun, for example for Japanese azaleas. The cultivar is protected by US Plant Patent no. PP16,362, granted in 2006.

River birch is an undemanding yet ecologically specialised tree that values ample moisture and deeper soils. It thrives best in full sun or light shade, in humus‑rich, well‑drained soils, but it also tolerates prolonged flooding. In dry conditions it responds with slower growth and partial shedding of inner leaves. It is sensitive to strongly alkaline soils, where chlorosis may occur. Pruning is unnecessary and should be limited to the removal of damaged or crossing branches, ideally in summer outside the period of heavy sap flow. Newly planted trees require firm staking, as rapid growth and a shallow root system in moist soils increase the risk of windthrow during the first years after planting. Frost hardiness is exceptional, down to approximately −40 °C (USDA zone 3), and plants require no winter protection even in cold temperate climates.

Last update 08-02-2026

River birch is sought after by landscape architects and tree enthusiasts above all for its bark. Even its name does not allow you to expect white and smooth bark in the way many of us associate with birches from childhood. Young twigs are dark to almost blackish brown, gradually thickening and changing colour with age, while trunks and major branches begin to shed their outer layers like a snake. The bark peels off in thin, papery strips and plates that curl and fray, revealing beneath them shades of beige, deep amber, cinnamon, caramel and mahogany brown. The leaves are deciduous, ovate to triangular, 5 to 10 centimetres long, with a distinctly serrated margin, deep green in summer and turning warm yellow in autumn, when they flutter in the cool air like small golden coins in the crown.

Growth is relatively fast, especially in youth, when annual increments of 40 to 60 centimetres are common, and under ideal conditions even more. At maturity the tree usually reaches 15 to 25 metres in height, forming a broadly ovate to irregular crown, often with several stems arising from the base. Compared with European birches, Betula nigra appears more robust and less ethereal, giving it a strong physical presence. It shows to best advantage where it has space, for example beside a body of water, in a garden with a riparian character, or as a solitary tree in lawn, where the structure of the trunk and branching can be fully appreciated.

River birch is an undemanding yet ecologically specialised tree that values ample moisture and deeper soils. It thrives best in full sun or light shade, in humus‑rich, well‑drained soils, but it also tolerates prolonged flooding. In dry conditions it responds with slower growth and partial shedding of inner leaves. It is sensitive to strongly alkaline soils, where chlorosis may occur. Pruning is unnecessary and should be limited to the removal of damaged or crossing branches, ideally in summer outside the period of heavy sap flow. Newly planted trees require firm staking, as rapid growth and a shallow root system in moist soils increase the risk of windthrow during the first years after planting. Frost hardiness is exceptional, down to approximately −40 °C (USDA zone 3), and plants require no winter protection even in cold temperate climates.

Last update 04-02-2026

Morning Candle is one of the hardier cultivars of hybrid acanthus, valued for its bold foliage and reliable flowering. Its leaf rosettes form compact, sturdy clumps up to about one metre across, composed of showy leaves that are dark green, highly glossy and deeply lobed, typically 30–50 cm long. The pronounced venation gives them an almost carved, relief-like appearance. Unlike A. spinosus, the leaf margins lack spines, and unlike A. mollis, the plant does not sprawl untidily across the ground. In early July, robust flowering stems emerge, reaching about 1 m, or even 1.5 m on mature plants. They carry spike-like inflorescences with white to creamy flowers set against darker purplish bracts, a combination that inspired the cultivar name Morning Candle. The cultivar is generally believed to have been bred by Dirk de Winter of New Generation Plants in the Netherlands.

Morning Candle earns its place both in perennial borders and among smaller shrubs, as its architecture holds its own even alongside woody plants. Its dramatic leaves can convincingly evoke the exotic atmosphere of a rainforest or a subtropical garden. Combining it with other perennials requires some restraint, as care is needed to ensure companions are not visually overwhelmed while the acanthus takes centre stage. In a well-maintained garden it stands out beautifully next to cushion-forming herbs such as cotton lavender, curry plant or thyme. Delicate contrasts work best: for example, Verbena species, which are still building their mass when acanthus is in flower, fill the gap beautifully once the plant has retreated to its basal leaves. To heighten the exotic feel, try pairing it with Stokesia or Ceratostigma, both of which bloom later. Among shrubs, excellent partners include Vitex, narrow-leaved Rhamnus and Choisya.

In Central Europe, acanthus is treated as a perennial that hates frequent or prolonged waterlogging, especially in winter. Plant it only in well-drained, humus-rich soil with ample nutrients, and mulch generously for winter protection. The mulch shields the roots from frost and from fluctuations in moisture; in spring, remove part of it carefully, but leave a protective layer in place, as the plant appreciates even moisture during early growth. Once established, it is drought-tolerant, yet regular watering during the first two years and in prolonged summer heat will encourage sturdy flower stems and better flowering. Feeding from April to July with a balanced fertiliser or compost promotes large, healthy leaves; avoid excessive nitrogen later in the season, which leads to soft, fragile growth. As for hardiness, well-drained, mulched and sheltered sites have already seen plants survive temperatures down to −20 °C (USDA zone 6b), and further testing is ongoing.

Last update 01-02-2026

Sasaba is a cultivar of holly osmanthus that will play with your senses if your visits to a garden centre aim at curiosities and hidden gems. Its leaves are so uniquely shaped that you may wonder for a long time whether you have ever seen anything similar. The only comparison that comes to mind is ivy ‘Sagittifolia’ ivy. The leaves are evergreen, 4–7 cm long, firm to leathery, glossy and very dark green, with conspicuous venation. They are divided in a highly unusual way into three pointed lobes, and on older plants the lobes can be so deeply cut that the leaf gives the impression of three separate, lance‑shaped leaves arranged side by side like a fan.

From mid‑autumn onwards, the plant produces tiny, creamy white, sweetly scented flowers. Flowering is never excessive, rather discreet, but on a calm autumn day the fragrance is clearly perceptible in the immediate vicinity of the shrub and brings genuine pleasure to the garden at the end of the season. The contrast between the hard, spiny foliage and the delicate, almost intimate, fragrant flowering is one of the greatest charms of this cultivar.

‘Sasaba’ forms a naturally compact, densely branched shrub with a strong framework, growing upright to broadly conical and maintaining its shape without the need for pruning. It branches from the base, with short internodes, so it never appears sparse, whether as a young plant or as a mature specimen. The bark of branches and trunks is light, sandy beige, with a subtle texture and deeply furrowed when old. Growth is slow to moderate; in temperate climates it typically adds around 10–20 cm per year, gradually slowing with age. As a result, it retains balanced proportions and a calm silhouette over the long term. At maturity it usually reaches 1.5–2 m in height and approximately 1.2–1.8 m in width, often with a very similar ratio of both dimensions, giving it the character of a stable, architecturally legible garden element.

Historical records of the origin of ‘Sasaba’ are fragmentary. It is considered an older Japanese selection of unknown authorship, most likely arising from the selection of plants with extremely cut leaves, a trait long valued in Japanese garden culture. The name ‘Sasaba’ is commonly interpreted as “bamboo‑grass leaf”, although the actual leaf shape is far more robust and dramatic.

Provide holly osmanthus with a high‑quality soil, ideally slightly acidic, that remains evenly moist but never waterlogged and is rich in nutrients. Generous mulching is recommended to protect the roots from rapid freezing. It can be grown in full sun or partial shade; in cooler regions it benefits from a position sheltered from winter sun, while ample light in summer is advantageous. Planting well‑established, robust specimens is advisable. If leaves are scorched by sun after the first winters, the shrub reliably regenerates in spring and produces fresh foliage. Frost hardiness is very good, down to around −24 °C (USDA zone 6), especially on a sheltered site. It is generally disease-free, but may be attacked by vine weevils, so keep an eye out for them.

Last update 29-01-2026

In 2006, a miracle occurred that at first looked rather ominous – in a French nursery, all seedlings of this botanical species froze except for a single plant, even though everyone was convinced of its suitability for the French climate. One eucalyptus, one pot, survived an unusually severe winter that affected all of Europe that year. It showed great stability and an ability to be propagated, giving us the chance to enjoy the unmistakable beauty of steel‑blue leaves in Central-European gardens all year round. This exceptional individual was named AZURA and is protected by European patent No. EU 25846 from 2008. It comes from the French company Institut Technologie FCBA, which ensured that enough plants became available across Europe.

Today we can calmly confirm that AZURA is the first reliably hardy eucalyptus cultivar for zone 6 and warmer. It bears magnificent steel‑blue to blue‑green, evergreen, rounded leaves on upright branches covered with a silvery bloom. The leaves produce aromatic essential oils not only when crushed, but in warm weather they scent the surrounding air as well. The luminous blue‑silver foliage stands out beautifully against any greenery and in front of any material – wooden fences, stone walls or brickwork – and in winter, when part of the chlorophyll, the green pigment, recedes from the leaves, the blue colour becomes even more intense. Traditionally, the essential oils in the leaves are said to repel biting insects, but you would need an entire avenue of trees to drive away mosquitoes in their strongholds, so against mosquitoes I recommend using window screens – and I suggest using eucalyptus solely for its beauty 😊.

Regarding the eventual size of tree‑form AZURA, it is fair to say that we are still navigating largely uncharted waters. All existing data on the growth of Eucalyptus gunnii in the cooler climates of Central and Northern Europe are based on plants that suffered frost damage each winter and lost part of their above‑ground growth. If frost ceases to be the limiting factor — which so far appears to be the case with this cultivar — it makes sense to expect a very different scenario. Healthy, well‑established trees grow extremely fast, commonly around one metre per year, and there is no reason to assume that their height should stop at the often‑quoted four to five metres. If the botanical species itself has the capacity to reach around ten metres, there is little reason to expect tree‑form AZURA to remain significantly smaller.

In tree form, AZURA develops an attractive, subtly multicoloured bark earlier than shrub forms, reminiscent of plane trees, though finer in texture. At the same time, it creates an evergreen mass of foliage higher above the ground, with a walk‑under crown that can also serve as a natural screen for neighbouring windows. During the first three years it requires firm staking to establish well, and it does not tolerate lawn growing over its root zone. Its size can be easily managed by pruning: a spring cut after the frosts keeps the crown compact and dense, while leaving it unpruned allows freer growth and, over time, the development of a rich, medium‑sized crown. It ultimately depends on how much space you give it — and how you want its story to unfold.

Eucalyptus loves full sun, but it will grow almost anywhere. It likes moisture yet once established it can cope with summer droughts. It is not particularly demanding in terms of soil, although the ideal substrate is slightly acidic, fertile and well‑drained, but not completely dry in winter – it dislikes dry, black frosts. Usually, it is enough to check the soil once a month and give it one or two watering cans of water depending on the size of the plant in dry winters. It is best grown with a generous mulch. Fertilising is not necessary, and excessive feeding can lead to overly lush, whippy growth. The ultimate frost hardiness has not yet been tested in all conditions, but –20 °C has been verified, with an expected tolerance of at least –23 °C. And if you live in a colder area, don’t be discouraged – just give it a try; who knows, you might be the next to experience the thrill of discovering something new 😊.

Last update 11-10-2019; 22-01-2026

The Atlas cedar is a stately, long‑lived conifer whose appearance changes markedly over the course of its life, eventually reaching a height of about 20 to 30 meters and forming a broad, spreading crown typically 10 to 15 meters wide. In youth it forms a regular, narrowly conical canopy with a prominent terminal leader, which with age gradually opens, flattens, and develops a broader, often picturesquely irregular shape. The main branches are arranged in tiers and carry finer lateral branchlets set horizontally to slightly drooping, sometimes gently bending, which gives the tree a lighter and more airy expression than that of the Lebanon cedar. The needles are stiff, four‑angled, usually 2 to 3 cm long, arranged in clusters on short shoots and singly on long annual shoots. Their colour is one of the most variable features of the species – from deep green through gray‑green to striking bluish tones – and the intensity of colouration can vary not only among different populations but even among seedlings from the same tree. This very variability became the basis for the selection and breeding of ornamental forms. Male and female cones occur on the same tree; the upright cones mature over two to three years and, when they disintegrate, release winged seeds.

Overall, the Atlas cedar appears robust but not heavy – its morphology combines the strength of a mountain tree with a delicacy of detail that fully reveals itself only on closer inspection. This balance allows it to be used in a wide range of landscapes, from expansive parks to surprisingly intimate gardens. It is also a frequent in Japanese gardens. In southern Europe, especially in Italy, it is handled with a lightness that might seem bold by our standards: lower branches are often removed up to a height of about three meters, and the canopy is allowed to spread freely above the space beneath. The result is a tree under which one can walk, sit, breathe, or even park, and which in summer heat functions as a natural sunshade – providing shade without weighing the space down, cooling without enclosing it or depriving it of light.

The Atlas cedar is a tree that takes care of itself, provided it is given the right place. It thrives best in fully sunny positions, where the crown can mature evenly and the needles retain their characteristic colouration. It prefers well‑drained, rather dry soils that are low in nutrients, while heavy and persistently waterlogged soils are poorly tolerated. Once established, it is highly resistant even to prolonged drought and usually manages without irrigation. The frost hardiness of mature trees is generally given as around −25 °C; young plants, however, may react sensitively in their first years to bare frosts and sudden temperature fluctuations, whereas older specimens with well‑ripened wood tolerate even short‑term drops to about −27 °C.

Last update 17-01-2026

Viburnum farreri is a medium‑sized, upright shrub with an open, lightly translucent habit that stands out especially in winter, when its branches trace clear lines against the grey sky. It typically reaches two to three metres in height, and older plants develop gently arching branches and a natural elegance that remains appealing even when the shrub is not in bloom. On older branches, the bark takes on warm honey‑orange to brown tones, with light peeling that becomes especially noticeable in winter. The deciduous leaves are broadly ovate, fresh green in spring, deep green in summer, and often turn shades of red and purple in autumn.

Flower buds are formed in summer and overwinter at the tips of the branches, opening with the first frost‑free days of late winter. The flowers are narrowly tubular and arranged in small, loose clusters that shift from pink buds to nearly white blossoms with a soft pink tint as they unfold. Its fragrance is surprisingly intense – sweet, slightly spicy, with notes of almond and vanilla – and in the leafless season it spreads around the shrub like an eager welcome to spring. On milder days it can perfume an entire corner of the garden, while on frosty mornings it lingers close to the branches and is best appreciated when you come closer.

The fragrant viburnum ranks among the most reliable winter shrubs and requires no special care. It thrives best in full sun to partial shade, in fertile, moderately moist soil that does not dry out completely in summer. It tolerates heavier soils and typical garden conditions well, making it suitable for most gardens without the need for soil modification. It does not require pruning, though it can be kept tidier and more compact with a moderate spring pruning immediately after flowering, allowing the shrub to set buds for the following winter. It is hardy to roughly –34 °C (USDA zone 4) and is also suitable for growing in large outdoor containers.

Last update 31-12-2025

Georgia Blue speedwell is especially admired for its early and surprisingly intense flowering at the very turn of winter and spring, at a moment when the garden is still hesitating whether to wake up. Low, creeping shoots quickly spread sideways, forming a continuous carpet of small, deep blue flowers with a delicate pale eye at the centre. After flowering, you will definitely appreciate the foliage: the leaves are small, narrowly lanceolate and marked by several distinct notches along the margins. Young leaves emerge in a rich mahogany tone, gradually maturing to medium green and developing a high, elegant gloss. The cultivar was discovered in the late 20th century in what is now Georgia, in the Caucasus region, and was introduced into horticulture by the British botanist and plant explorer Roy Lancaster, who named it after the place of its discovery. Compared to the species, ‘Georgia Blue’ is lower, denser and more floriferous, which has made it one of the most popular ground‑cover speedwell cultivars.

In the garden, ‘Georgia Blue’ serves as a subtle linking element between different plantings or larger garden compositions. It performs beautifully beneath deciduous shrubs that provide light summer shade, along the edges of beds where conditions are not too dry, among stones or beside paths, where it creates a calm yet lively blue line. It acts as a modest helper even in places that are not immediately visible, yet during flowering you will surely come closer to enjoy its clear blue colour. It provides a flowering understory for spring bulbs and then quietly allows them to disappear into its foliage once they have finished. It also pairs easily with ferns, heucheras and shade‑loving grasses, its low growth providing a quiet base for taller plants.

Creeping speedwell belongs among undemanding and reliable perennials that settle quickly in the garden and perform well over the long term without special care. It prefers humus‑rich, moderately moist soil, ideally in semi‑shade, where it is not exposed to prolonged drought or intense sun. Once established, it tolerates short dry spells and does not require regular feeding or frequent intervention. For the best appearance, however, it benefits from being cut back after flowering, almost as if mown like a lawn. It responds by thickening beautifully and forming a continuous carpet of fresh, healthy foliage. It is fully hardy down to approximately −34 °C (USDA zone 4) and requires no winter protection.

Last update 26-12-2025

The flowers of the Japanese aster Blue Star display a delicate, pale blue‑violet colour that remains relatively rare among summer‑flowering perennials. It is a clump‑forming perennial with upright, sturdy stems carrying numerous small, star‑shaped flowers with yellow centres. Flowering is long, typically from June through September, and this persistence is one of its greatest strengths. The leaves are narrow, lance‑shaped, and fresh green, forming a light, natural base that never feels heavy, even in dense plantings. Compared to the botanical species, ‘Blue Star’ is more compact, flowers more abundantly, and shows greater colour uniformity. Because of its extended blooming period, removing spent flower heads during the season is recommended to maintain a neat clump and limit seed formation.

You might be surprised by how versatile the Japanese aster can be in the garden. It performs beautifully in naturalistic perennial borders, weaving among ornamental grasses to create a light, meadow‑like effect. It pairs especially well with tall oxeye daisies and coneflowers, or with summer ornamental alliums that highlight its delicacy, as well as with veronicastrums, which enhance the overall sense of airiness. Thanks to its upright habit, it also works well in the middle layer of borders, filling the space between lower perennials and taller clumps. In smaller gardens, it can be used as a repeating motif along paths or terraces, where its long flowering season ensures colour throughout the summer. And because the flowers hold well when cut, it also earns a place in the vase.

The growing requirements of the Japanese aster are refreshingly modest. It thrives best in full sun to light partial shade, in well‑drained soil that remains moderately moist. Prolonged waterlogging does not suit it, but short periods of drought are tolerated without difficulty. Heavy feeding is unnecessary; a spring application of compost is more than sufficient. Apart from removing spent flower heads and stems during the growing season, it requires only one main cut: in early spring, before new growth begins, the previous year’s stems are cut back close to the ground. Under our conditions, the plant is reliably hardy to approximately −28 °C (USDA zone 5) and requires no winter protection.

Last update 14-12-2025